Managed to hydrolock the #6 cylinder and bend a rod. When removing the head one of the head bolts broke about an inch and a half down inside the block. I will be trying to remove the remainder with an easy out tool tomorrow night but my questions are:

Are the head bolts torque to yield?

Has anyone installed a heli coil or similar device to repair the head bolt threads?

I'd sure appreciate any info. I searched a bit but could not find these items covered.

Mark

Have you priced out used motors? I can't help you out on the questions but might want to find out what they cost as a backup should you abandon the rebuild.

Two websites that may be able to help would be www.car-part.com (for used parts) and www.stcharlesauto.com (for oem parts)

No experience with this engine but the torque to yield bolts I have seen are a lot smaller in the center of the bolt than they are at both ends. So you should be able to tell by looking at the bolts. That's definatly NOT a sure fire way to tell though. I bet someone that has worked on this engine will pop in and tell you for sure.



Again, not on this engine, but YES I have heli-coiled other engine head bolt holes with no problems.

I'm currently going through the same thing. Had a head bolt brake off in the block. About a inch of it broke. So far I have managed to drill about a half inch out without damaging the threads. Tomorrow Im going to start to try to back the rest out.

YES THOSE ARE TORQUE TO YEILD BOLTS , ALL ISUZU V6 ENGINES USE THE SAME TYPE OF BOLT AND THEY SHOULD BE REPLACED,AFTER EVERY USE , ESP AFTER A LOT OF MILES ,AND YES AGAIN ON THE HELI COIL BUT I WOULD HIGHLY RECCOMMEND A GOOD MACHINE SHOP , THAT PARTICLE ONE IS NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART , JERRY

I checked at http://www.allhyundaiisuzuparts.com/ and they would get a 100k motor with 6 month warranty to me for ~ 1,000.00. To me this is in a way more appealing than the thought of rebuilding what I have (if it has to come out) because it would also have newer injectors and such. Hoping not to pull it though.

Man, that's a handy salvage site - found a motor with less miles 30 miles from me for the same $$$. Thanks much.

I wish you were close by and I would lend moral support. One thing that helped me was finding bushings to fit the bolt hole and align the drill bit. If we had not thought of this I wouldn't have been able to go any further after the easy out broke off.

Thanks. I will replace them. Do you know if the main bolts which hold the oil manifold in place to the main caps are also torque to yield?

On the heli coil I hate the thought of pulling the motor and at this point I feel like if I did I would be approaching a cost level where I would be about as well off with a salvage motor as opposed to all of the gaskets and such I would end up putting into the old motor plus the machinine shop costs.

THE BOLTS ON THE BOTTOM OF THE ENG ARE NOT THE T/Q TO YLD TYPE AND YES YOU MAY BE BETTER OFF GETTING A LOW MILAGE ENG IF YOU CAN HEAR IT RUN, A COMPLETE GSKT SET WILL RUN AROUND 300.00 FACTORY , PLUS THE MACHINE SHOP COSTS AND LABOR AND YOU STILL HAVE A HI MILE ENG JUST SHOP A BIT AND SEE IF YOU CAN SHAG A 60-80 K MILE ENG AND GO FOR IT ALL THE 92-95 3.2 SOHC ENGS ARE THE SAME AND THE 96-97 ENGS ARE THE SAME BUT YOU CANNOT CROSS THOSE YEARS ,, 98 AND LATER A LOT OF WIRING CHANGES BUT CAN BE DONE JERRY

I managed to drill most of the head bolt out but of course it is not exactly centered. I have a high speed steel tap which is supposed to arrive tomorrow as the steel from the head bolt dulls the normal Vermont American taps pretty quickly. I've managed to tap down about an inch of the threads but still have ~ 1" to go.

Hopefully though the threads are not perfect they will be adequate to hold the ~ 48ft/lbs of torque. In addition to hoping that the threads I make will hold I'm wondering about also using:

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/FORMSTRK-EN.pdf

Anyone have experience with this product?

Mark