The wiring was easy. I took the info from the writeup and MadElectrical.com, and verified it against the info in my FSM.

The big output terminal goes to the battery of course. I used off the shelf 4ga battery cables and a Bussmann Hi-Amp fuse holder and 175A fuse from Waytekwire.com.

Terminal #1 on the alternator goes to the yellow Toyota "L" wire. This turns on the field and operates the charge light on the dash.

Terminal #2 on the alternator is for voltage sensing and can go to either of the two factory white wires (the original large charge wire going to the battery, or the other one in the 3-wire connector that was used originally used for voltage sensing). I chose the one in the connector. You could even just jumper terminal one to the battery output if you wanted, but you will lose a slight amount of voltage at high amperage due to the drop in the cable.

I picked up a plug for the alternator off the shelf at the auto parts store, crimped two male 1/4" blade connectors onto it, and just pushed those into the factory connector (instead of cutting or tapping into wires), and then taped it up. I taped over the original battery wire ring terminal too for insulation.

Its all set up so that I can still easily drop in my old factory alt if I need to for some reason.



I too was skeptical of Mr. Alternator/ACE output claims. Its not a "proven" upgrade like the GM alternators. I was also worried about heat generated by a lot of amps in a small alternator w/o a fan. High heat = short life for electronics (diodes & regulator).

The Powermaster came with a hand-signed tag stating its measured output at the factory- 94A at 2400rpm, 146A at 6000rpm (alternator rpm, not engine rpm. Divide by 3 to get approx. engine rpm).

The email from ACE above even states that the idle output is only 75A, which is more than 20% less than the Powermaster. I'll admit that the bolt-in part was very appealing, but you still need to upgrade the wiring so its not 100% plug and play.