I have an 87 toyota pu with IFS and am wondering if the ball joint lift would be a good way of getting a little lift. Mainly I was wondering if it screws up the alignment and would screw up the over all geometry of the front end. Can any oe tell me some good pointers and if it will hurt my truck?

Just food for thought....I was going to go the exact same path, but ended up going with a body lift from 4crawler instead, so as not to jack with my Toyota steering and what not. I was hesitant, but have been very happy with the BL. Not only did I gain clearance for tires, but also gained a little clearance for working on things....

I might suggest a 2" instead of the 3" though, but it was worth it. Also swapped out body bushings at the same time.

The ball joint lift seemed like it might be a waste also if I decide to go with an SAS in the future, that was one more reason steering me away. Just some things to think about....

However, I have not heard anything bad about the BJ spacers....

Ball Joint spacers can be used for a some lift as well and increasing front suspension travel as well. You will need to get an alignment after installing them, as you would if you simply cranked up the torsion bars a similar amount:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BallJointSpacer.shtml

I have run my BJS for over 2 years with no problems and alignment was right at factory specs. The advantage with the BJS is that not only are you getting 1.5ö of lift but also that much in added suspension travel and maintain the same ride quality that I had stock. ItÆs still not bad now with an additional 4ö of lift and 35ö but I do plan to SAS this summer or next winter and can easily sell the BJS if I want to. For the money and ease of installation, I would go for the BJS over a body lift any day.

BJS û Modify the upper A-arms, extend the front shock, and add a longer shackle or blocks to the rear. If you want a little more lift, add a diff drop kit and crank the t-bars an inch.

Body lift û Depending on the amount of BL, you may have to do some modifications. The radiator needs to be move up, shifter (trans and t-case) levers may hit the body, bumpers need to be raised unless you like the gap and you have to extend the steering shaft. Body lift is great if youÆre going to do a drive train lift and move the gas tank up too for more clearance.

In the end, I think it would cost you the same amount of money no matter which one you decide to do.

Good points, I forget about the added increase in wheel travel...

I recommend both. A 1.5-2" body lift should keep you from having to move your radiator or adjust your shift linkage, while giving you some increased access to areas. Body lift also lifts the WHOLE truck. Ball joint spacers give you a lot of flexibility to change your ride height, travel and softness, but you will need to re-align each time you adjust the torsion bars, and add equal lift to the rear (longer shackles, extra leaf spring, coil spring addition). Both are pretty cheap, easily done in an afternoon and should gain you plently of lift to run 33"s with minimum rub (depending on your backspacing). My .02 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I have the ball joint spacers and a 1" body lift. If your truck is aligned now, adding the spacers alone should not mess up the alignment or overall geometry. If you adjust the torsion bars it will mess up the alignment. The spacers will allow more suspension travel and a much softer ride. But your stock shocks will limit the extra travel so you will have to space them down a bit or get new shocks. I saw someone mention that Pro Comp 317514 will work, but I just spaced mine about 1/2". You might want to get a new steering stabilizer too. I would suggest longer shackles to lift the rear.

From Rogers site:



And from a e-mail to me from Frank at SDORI: