Heres the latest update.I now have all the exhaust done , its 2 1/4 pipe , with my flowmaster 50 series on there.He put new pipe from the collectors onthe headers to the muffler , and the rest was what I had before.The O2 sensor is in the stock place after the Y and the pipes join and go into one.No check enginelight with the sensor in , and none when it was open headers , so no idea if it even needs to be in there.

I fixed the angle of the rear driveshaft as it wasn't nice and straight for both parts like a 1 piece shaft , and my mechanic mentioned that I would get vibration and eat U-joints the way it was sitting.I then put the fenders and hood back on.

I am having a few issues , but slowly its coming together.My tempgugae seems to have given up on me , and its still running a little rich.I still have to get the TPS and timing set , that should in theory help.

Tmorow it goes in for an alignment , then it won't be pulling a little to the left anymore.It drives great , lots of power , and once the little issues are resolved it will be great <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Alignment is all done , and I was actualy complimented on my work from the alignment guy thats been doing it for almost 40 years <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />He said I had done a very good job , it wasn't out a whole lot.He took out the shims I had put in on the passenger side , and did 2 half turns on the driver side tie rod <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> Only cost me 35 bucks , and the computer said it was good.My steering wheel is a little off , but thats no biggie , it wasn't 100% on when I got the truck to begin with.

I got my temp guage working today , had to do a little figuring out all the wiring on the back of the circuit board.It seems when you take out the fuel guage from the cluster , it breaks a couple of the circuits , so the temp guage doesn't work , and I was blowing fuses for my dash light/tail light fuse.I also got the light on my new fuel guage to work and the guage mounted.The wiring in the guage cluster is really weird , there are 2 wires for the dash lights in the guages.For some reason , 1 is ground , but labeled as positive , the other is positive.Anyway , I had the wrong wire connected to the light <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Next step today is figuring out exactly how to mount my other battery to my front bumper and still have room for my bush bar and winch.The electric fan just draws too much power for the main battery as it runs for a while after turning off the truck.Sooo , I am gonna hook my winch and the electric fan to a deep cycle battery on my bumper.This way it will run the fan , and when I need it for the winch , I can switch the fan off and go for it.I also have to remember how to hook up my battery isolator , its been a while since I used it <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />It has a small post on it , which I believe comes from the charging system , then 2 larger posts , one on each side , which should go to the positive on each battery.Then I believe each battery should be grounded.

Anyway , still lots of little things to do , but its up and running , with lots of power <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" /> One other thing I am going to adress right away is the fuel cell.The way that hose is kinked due to the post , I have to fill it up very slow or it overflows.So , I am gonna take it off, move it back about 2-3" , cut a hole in the floor and have a hose going through there so its less of an angle , and maybe move my whole gas fill thing up on the truck.Will have to look at that and see how that would work out.But having an almost 90 degree bend in your fuel hose just doesn't quite work out that great <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" />

Spent the last coupleof days remounting the fuel cell.Almost done now after a coupleof tries <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> The first one I started to put things together , then found out it wasn't going to work out like how I pictured it.So I took everything , reworked it out , and thought I would be smart and bolt the brackets on right away , then slide the tank in.Nope , not enough room in there to do that.So , I unbolted the 2 bolts on each side that I put there so that I can drop the tank easier than how I had it before.Its all in place now , just need to bolt it in , its sitting on some old pallets to hold it in place for now.I would have finished it yesterday but it started raining on me pretty good.To get the cell up high , I have to drill a hole in my floor , even with the angled filler neck.No big deal , I will eventualy have it so you would never know.Once I get started with the project in the back of the truck , it will hide where the hose pops through the floor and goes to the main filler.

After the tank is done , I got some traction bars I will put on , easy job , and it should stop the vibration I get only on take off.They were cheap , 50 bucks , and they are chrome <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

My other projects I hope to get done for the weekend are a 3 wire O2 sensor which is supposed to be better for the 3.4 and also having headers in there.I also still have my 14" K&N air filter to install instead of the 10" I have been running.With the A/C you need a spacer or it will hit the solid lines off the compressor , plus I got some threaded rod to make my own part where you bolt the lid down.It needs to be longer and a way different bend than stock.

Also my hood scoop came in.I'll try and sit it on the hood and get some pics of what it will look like once its mounted on there.So much to do , so little time.I still have to get my power windows and locks in , and get started on the inside of the back of the truck.Plus I still have all my electronics to go in there.But its slowly coming together <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Ok , tank is done , moved it back about 2" and raised it 2" so its higher now than it was before.Still no pics of the new work yet , but will soon.I have to redo part of my fuel fill hose , I tried to skimp on part and it leaked.Easy fix though , just need another hose clamp <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

I put the traction bars on and they do ake a difference.I still have a bit of a shimmy , but not near as bad as it was.I might just have to tighten up the bolts a little , so I will start there for the easy fix.I will also do a double check of the driveshaft angle and carrier bearing.

I also put my 14" K&N filter on , only took me 2 tries to get the threaded rod to hold the lid on at the right angles.It looks pretty good , but does cover a lot more of the engine bay then the 10" did.I think the stock one was a 12" , but I'm not positive.

Still lots to do , mostly small things , and not really related to the drivability.I will have to put the skidplates on soon so I can at least go try out the tera lows and the lockright in the front <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I might have to heli coil some of the holes for the skid plates as some bolts did break off in there.

If anyones up for any wrenching , they can always drop by , all the hard work is done now <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Well , seems I did something to my wiring while I was fidling with the fuel cell <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> My dummy light for the e-brake now stays on even though my cables are a little slack , and the brake is completely off ,even the daytime lights are on , which only come on if the e-brake is off.Also , I keep stalling , and the pump won't run again till I jump out and fiddle with the wiring back there.Kind of a pain when you stall at the lights of a busy intersection <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" />So it looks like I'll have to take all that wiring apart and go through it and see whats shorting out.Also , not sure if this can be causing the stalling or not , but the fuel pump gets pretty warm.I have no idea if that is normal as I have never touched one before now.

I guess thats part of my to fix projects , as well as the fuel fill hose.The timing seems to be doing strange things again too even though the shop set the timing to the stock 10 degrees.The engine will run fine for a bit(this is while warm) , then it will surge a little up and down.Maybe this could be a result of the wiring problem too , I'm not sure of that yet.Just more things to check out.All these little gremlins that get into vehicles , you never know where to start , and when you think you find them , thats not it.

I just want to make sure I have the gremlins out for engine reliability before I take it off road so I don't get stranded out there somewhere and have to hike back to town or something <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Suging engine, vacuum leak somewhere? If it does it when it gets hot, there may be a thermo actuated switch on the emission controls that is malfunctioning... just a thought

Well , I did leave a lot of stuff off when I put the 3.4 in there.There is no charcoal cannister and extra line from the tank as its not a stock tank at all.The air pump is not plugged in as it does not work with headers , and I only have 2 vacuum lines that are in use.Also I don't have a PCV , I went with open breathers on the valve covers.I allready checked for vacuum leaks , and nada. I think its still got something to do with either timing or the way my pump wires are shorting since I relocated my fuel cell.It wasn't surging like this before.I'll be fixing the wiring up today so I can get it back on the road without worrying about the fuel pump stoppingon me at odd moments <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I'll fire it up and jiggle the wires one at a time untill it stops again.Although there are only 2 wires that actualy control the pump.It does go through a larger harness and the whole harness might have a loose connection somewhere.

Ok , heres the latest updates with pics <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> I got my transfer case fixed , and he managed to do it without me having to replace the teras.He swapped a gear from my spare parts in and took the burrs off the tera idler.So the transfer case is all fixed and back on along with the drive shafts.No pics of that as I'm sure everyones seen a transfer case by now <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

I also moved the fuel cell back about 3" and lifted it almost 3" also , so it is now sitting at stock height like where the original tank sat instead of sitting lower.I also changed my mounts around a bit , so now I can drop the tank a lot easier than before I changed them.The only reason I should have to drop the tank is if the sender goeson me and needs to be replaced.I also modified my fuel filler so it can be filled without going slow do to a 90 degree angle in it , its at a perfect 45 , and I also put my 45 angle neck on there.Again , no pics of this either.I will next time I take the camera out.

I have my heated O2 sensor hooked up and working , seems to run better than with the stock one.Can't really get pics of it due to space constraints under there.

I sat my cowl induction scoop on the hood so I could get some pics of what it will look like when its put on.I am going to take it to a body shop when I am ready and get them to do it as it looks like it might need to be modified just a little due to the raised parts that are on the hood allready , otherwise the scoop won't sit right.Heres a couple of pics of the scoop.





I'll probably have to get them to shave maybe an inch or 2 off the front of the scoop so it blend in better with the front of the hood.

Heres a couple pics of my winch bumper put back on the truck with the winch.The close up pic is the mounts they made as you couldn't get the mounting kit anymore with the winch.The bumper is a warn combo unit , which you can still get , its the same for toyota , isuzu , nissan , ford ranger , S-10 , etc.Then all you do is make some mounts and your good to go.





The next pictures are of the nerf bars I installed.They are the actual ones made for 1988-91 Troopers and are almost a straight bolt on.I was going to modify them a little to put them a bit higher , but they don't quite fit up in the frame that way , so I put them in the stock position.I guess it doesn't look too bad , but I think it would have looked a little better maybe 2" higher or so due to the body lift.







Excuse the skids and the bucket in the pictures.I used the skids to hold the transfer case in place while I bolted it in , and the bucket was from draining and filling the case <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

The last picture here is of my new K&N filter.I had a 10" cheapo on there before , but this is now a 14" so has better airflow , and is also a much better filter.I had to get a 2" spacer to put under it due to the A/C lines and the throttle cable mount bracket.Otherwise it fits in there just fine.

Thats about it for now , still got things going on with it , and can get back to installing my power windows and locks , my stereo stuff , then the fun of putting the skid plates back on.I did notice I have another oil leak , but I know where its from , and it can be easily fixed.I just need to find a big pipe wrench that I can use to tighten it.Its from the oil filter relocation part.It looks like it got bumper and loosened up a little , so just needs to be retightened.Also , I am still trying to track down where my brake fluid is leaking.Right now I am leaning towards the master , but its hard to track it down exactly as it only leaks under power when you apply the brakes , hard to do as a 1 man job <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />