WooHoo!!! Just wanted to share. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />I know some of you guys are freezing your nads off right now but down here an A/C is a MUST! It hasn't worked since I bought it and I took a gamble and bought a $20 bottle of R-134A and charged it up. Someone had already converted it for me. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I let it run for a few minutes and measured a 56? discharge air temp. That's pretty damn good for a 20y/o system. I was already planning on spending a few hundred to get it fixed. So that damn $20 was well spent. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/mrt.gif" alt="" />

My buddies mid-70's PU runs in the upper 30's at the vent.

my A/C works only in the winter with the windows down <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

it works but theres a reason why it all leaked out its a closed system in a week you will probaly add another can and

There's a lot of unknowns with this truck. It sat unused for a long period of time so I'll see how long the charge last. I have guages, sealant, and more freon. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />


One issue I did notice today was that the idle was way high (2k rpm) with the A/C on. Is that controlled by the Fast Idle screw?

IIRC you can control the AC idle up on the carb, it should be the passanger side of the motor, a little diaphragm with a vacuum like attached.

As far as the A/C goes here's the story: R-134a (what you have) is alot different from R-12 (stock) when you convert you must change out ALL the o-rings to ones that are compatable with R-134a, as it will eat the R-12 o-rings. Also in talking to my neighbor who's a car A/C guy(and a really good one at that) he tells me that R-134a is physically smaller in size than R-12 is, this causes problems in systems that weren't designed to use the newer R-134a. In new cars what have the R-134a from the factory they use what's called "barrier" hoses which instead of being straight rubber, they have IIRC a nylon 'barrier' inside of them that keeps the smaller particles of the R-134a where they are supposed to be. Now the best way to convert is of course to change all the o-rings about 10-12 and then change the hoses. Me, I'm in the process of buying the o-rings I need from the stealer (R-12 compatable) and then I'm gonna recharge with either R-12 or Freeze-12.

56 deg at vent is prolly not cold enough to make you happy when it gets hot again (yes, I lived in FL for 30yrs I remember what a blessing A/C was year-round). You should see a 30-40 plus drop over outside air. My '84 blows in the low 40's when its 90 outside. It was colder with R12, but DuPont <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" /> f-'d us all on that deal.

(OOP's I almost pulled out my soapbox and re-exposed the BIGGEST hoax ever played on the world!!)

Anyway, ranting aside, the 134a won't get as cold as the 12 did, but it will perform fair in our old junk. Couple things to look for: good airflow over condensor; make sure fan clutch is OK, toyotas are famous for weak fan clutch (use a BIG fan or spray water while testing sitting still); don't put in too much 134a, it takes LESS R134a to fill system than R12 (I forgot the ratio).

Use Tires Plus or similar rip-off chain for a FREE a/c diagnosis while your system is cold. They should have a "sniffer" that can find potential leaks. IF the leak APPEARS to be at the evaporator, check the pressure sensor on evap. ($17 a dealer last time I got one) for a leak there.

What do the gauges say?

I duuno how to adjust idle-up circuit...

BTW, I have "converted" several A/C systems by installing adapters and adding 134a w/'universal oil' <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" />. Most are still working years later.

and if you need parts check on renting evac pump and do it yourself!!! put $65/hr in yer pocket, A/C is NOT rocket science <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Well keep in mind I didn't have guages when I put the freon in. All I had was the idiot PSI guage that came on the can. I work for the largest mechanical company in the state of Florida so I can get any guage or vacuum pump I need. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
As soon as I can get my hands on a set of guages I'll see what the pressures are running at and adjust accordingly.

But using Tire Plus or Ice Cold Air for an inspection is a pretty good idea.

After 20 years of air moving across that coil I'm sure it's full of $h!t on the entering side. I thought about pulling it and cleaning the coil. Anyone know how hard it is to get to?

Also, after reading the FSM I wasn't testing the A/C correctly. I had the doors and windows rolled up. You're supposed to have them open. I was only getting a 10? split with the doors closed. I'll see what I get with them open.

I converted to 134A about 5 or 6 years ago and still going strong. I had the dealer do it while they were replacing the compressor. I get about 38deg out the vent whild driving and close to 50deg sitting in traffic (100deg outside). I have a Black Magic fan that seems to help a lot since it moves quit a bit of air. I don't think the dealer replaced all the "o" rings either. Knock on wood. I have 134A gauges and have to add 1 or 2 cans per year to keep it going. Small price to pay for cold air since we don't have much of a winter down here..... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

this summer i plan on adding ac in the truck probaly from ackits.com eith that or tube doors <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />