The FSM only shows you how to adjust it when the carb is off the intake. I adjusted the screw below. Hope it was the right one. I did lower the rpm's.

BTW, what does "IIRC" stand for?

[quote
BTW, what does "IIRC" stand for? [/quote]

If I recall/remember correctly... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I think this type of acronym is the result of kids/chatroom/text messaging.

here's a list from a diesel forum, but it has a lot of universal crap also:
http://forums.thedieselstop.com/ubb...mp;amp;sb=5&o=31&fpart=1

maybe we could get a 'sticky' like that for this forum? Maybe I a moron and there is one here somewhere <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

My neighbor mostly works on domestics, so not sure, our trucks might have higher quality A/C stuff in them than domestics(that'd be a surprise <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />) but I do know that he sure knows his A/C systems, last summer he showed me his in his awsome '52 chevy, it was 110* that day and his A/C was blowing 30*....that's pretty darn good IMHO!

I would beleive a larger vehicle could have colder A/C. Efficiency is the key. A bigger condensor/compressor coupled to proportianate evap, etc. WILL be colder. A system DESIGNED for 134a will ALWAYS be colder than one converted, unless you change more hardware. My PSD will get tooo cold inside no matter how hot it is outside.

I did use an expansion valve for 134a in my toyota's system, but didn't notice much difference. I think if you want a 1rst gen Toyota to get colder, you have to increase airflow over the condensor (ie, elect fan), and pay the big bucks for R12.

Remember when R12 was .75/lb and you could get it at walmart? WE GOT SCREWED!!! And, before you think we're saving the environment, you need to know more about CFC's and the company who held the -now expired- patent on R12.

I'm sorry about the rant, its just sad when big business can BS the gov so they can make mega$$$$ for themselves.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> OK thats enough! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />

Being totally empty, I should have pulled a vacuum on it before I charged it up. I got a set of gauges on and the pressures were too high. (35/250)

Well I found the problem. Actually I found the site glass and it looks like a tiny river of foam flowing by with the occasional bubble. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

I'm off to get a drier and a vacuum pump. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

Yeah, the Freeze 12 is pretty expensive, but down here in AZ we just buy our R12 from Mexico <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" /> but don't tell Homeland Security!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

There should be an adjustment behind the glovebox for the AC idle up; then of course you have the vacuum part on the carb (non-AC carbies won't have that assembly). Take a look at your other post; it might be in the FSM illustration. If not, I believe 4Crawler has it on his website.

I looked through the FSM and didn't see it. I thought maybe I was getting my info mixed up. Something is still not quite right with the idle up though. After adjusting the screw I circled the idle up is much better but it doesn't kick up the idle all the time. Especially when it's cold. I have to give it some gas and then it kicks the idle up. But then sometimes when it's cold, it lets the idle go back down. Almost like the linkage is slipping off the cam. I'll take a look over at 4Crawler's website and see if I can find it. Thanks.

As far as the AC goes, I think I'm going to through some leak detector/sealer in and see if I have any major leaks before I go through the trouble of discharging, installing a new drier, and recharging.

If its out of gas now, or you strongly suspect a leak, you can pull a vacuum and see if it holds it. You may be able to hear it leaking down (pressure or vac) by using a small hose as a stethoscope. Also look for tell-tale oil stains at suspect leak locations, ie: all o-ring locations, condensor and evap.

If you open system up at all, I would suggest pulling evap anyway for a visual inspection and flush everything w/ A/C flush. You can often see a leak (oil stain), but don't assume there's just ONE! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" />

I wish I lived near the border <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> well, maybe not <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
I wouldn't be suprised if mex R12 is even cheaper than 134a <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

It's about $5 a bottle, I got some last time I was down, but it's all gone now <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> I'm waitin for my neighbor to go down so he can pick some up for me <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> It's kinda funny they still have the $.75 price stickers from wally mart on them <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />