Well the condenser has started rusting where it was probably freezing over at one time in the past. So I've already added that to my list. The fan clutch seems to be working just fine. It pulls much harder with the A/C on. It seems to run at 100% from what I can tell.

Right now the blower fan blows pretty strong. I need a dash and some A/C controls so I wanted to hold off yanking the evaporator until I could do it all at once. Someone broke the heater control lever because the heater valve froze up and they kept pulling on it. So I gotta get that too. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Even though 134a and R-12 require different amounts in order to achieve the same BTU's, the pressures in the system would be the same as designed, wouldn't they? This is the first I've heard of using less 134a than R-12. Because the design pressure in the '85 FSM is based on R-12. Not 134a.

Well I finally got around to checking the A/C again. I noticed the pressures kept dropping down to like 12/115 and then it would go back up. Well I sprayed the condesner with water and watched it fall from 32psi to 8psi on the low side. It appears I need to replace the condenser after all. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

I found this one for $81.20 and free shipping. Not bad considering the locals want $150+ and 2 days to get it.

http://www2.toyautoparts.com/parts/...amp;part=A%2FC+Condenser&dp=true

First, yes - use water while adjusting. This will optimize heat exchanging quality of condensor.

I would agree w/the replace condensor theory if its missing alot of fins or something due to corrosion/abuse. There's no real magic inside, it either exchanges heat or not (via the fins). Otherwise, replace the fan clutch. Unless you have a way to measure its rpm's vs the engine rpm's I don't know how else you could tell if its bad, unless its REALLY bad. I've been thru 2 of them in 150k, they are notoriously weak, especially in your climate (I put all those miles on from Tampa <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />)

I found a Taurus electric fan today for $20 at a junkyard, this is alot cheaper than a clutch and prolly works better. Especially in traffic (my a/c still never worked well sitting still for long) Look for info about this swap in tech archives here, pirate and yotatech boards...

Definitely less volume 134a than R12. My use of gauges has been more 'subjective'. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Uh, like a guide but not a ruler <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />. For example, if the high side still looks high w/water on the condensor, I would let some gas out and check temp at the vent. I had a little decision tree thingy once upon a time that gave suggestions as to what probs might be if hi was hi, low was hi, low was lo and relationship to each other - you get the idea. Somewhere you can look up 'ideal' and kinda go from there, but I've had cold A/C and been quite different from those numbers.

The evap is not hard to pull other than being under dash. The only part of dash to come off is glove box...

If your temp adjuster is busted (my current one has been for years) Make sure hot water is turned off to heater coil - valve is under hood near firewall, follow heater hose. AND make sure damper is flipped the right way between heater core and evap. This may have been part of yer problem all along!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I deal w/mine being broken by turning hot water valve off under hood in summer and I just reach under dash and flip the damper in (FL) winter where I want heat in the AM and A/C by the time sun comes out. I was gonna put some choke cables on there to control it, but never bothered... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

my 84 22r has the adjustment behind the glovebox.

The condenser has some rust and the top fins are broken and falling out so it needs to go.

Yeah I found the heater valve awhile ago when I found the temperature adjustment broken. The valve was frozen shut but I sprayed some liquid wrench on/in it and worked it loose enough to manually adjust. It's just a PITA to open the hood ever time I need to adjust the heat. I'm working on a fix for that. I'll check on the damper for the heater core. IIRC I believe the damper was working.

I ordered a new condenser from www.toyautoparts.com. Great price, product, and shipping was about 1 week from order date. I got it installed this weekend and recharged. It also has about 2x the amount of fins/inch so my cooling capacity is greatly improved. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

However, I found another problem. The heater control valve is partially open. It had been closed for who knows how long when I unfroze it a few weeks ago. Now it's hung partially open and I'm currently looking for a replacement.

Even with the heater stuck on I'm still getting a discharge air temp of 58?. I can't wait to get the heater valve replaced. I should have good cold air then. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />