I redid the valve cover and torqued the cam to FSM specs but still ticking badly.

I still cant get above 65, same symptoms.

Could a bad slave cylinder cause this? I did buy one over the weekend. Been busy chasing other issues.

Fixin to sell this thing off. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />

I heard of a bad coil causing weak spark? Did you do a compression test, you might have a bad valve. How does it idle? Is the linkage set up correclty, when it's floored is the butterfly in the carb all the way open? Any possiblity you have a restriction in the exhaust, clogged Cat or old muffler, bent tubing, bannana in tail pipe? What type of air filter are you running any issues with air flow?

Also since you have a weber are you sure your vac advance on the dizzy is correct?

Just throwing out everything I can think of.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for the ideas.
Butterfly looks good. Can floor and rev all i want.
Have air intake off 97 Dakota
Put new cat on with Headers. Muffler is maybe 8 moths old.

Crazy idea, Does the 4wd light do anything other than that. I destroyed some wires putting tranny in so the sensor isnt plugged in. the reason I ask is does it limit speed. Whas the Raider that fancy in 87?

Since I remounted fuel punmp it just wont go above 65. It isnt sputtering or anything just wont go faster. It acts like there is a rpm limiter. You can floor it but it aint going faster.

By what you are saying it sounds to me like you are lacking in the fuel dept. Whats the tach say at 65MPH? Record it now take truck upto same RPM in lower gear. Same result runs out of poop? Timing can be an issue so could the coil. I would try loading it in another gear and check the timing again. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

That is what it sounds like but last fillup was 7 gallons to go 53 miles. (other thread)

Tach is at 3000. I can run to 4000 in 4th.

Check the dizzy advance. Unplug the dizzy vac line and plug it, and using a timing light, check the timing at idle, and at the following rpms:
Federal
Governor (crank deg/rpm)
Initial 0/l600
Middle 9/2800
Final 19/6000
Vacuum (crank deg/mmHg/inHg)
Initial 0/ 80/ 3.15
Middle 12/150/ 5.90
Final 23/280/11.02
California
Governor (crank deghpm)
initial 0/l600
Middle 9/2800
Final 19/6000
Vacuum (crank deg/mmHg/inHg)
Initial 0/ 80/ 3.15
Middle 12/150/ 5.90
Final 20/360/14.17

Use a hand vacuum pump to check the vac advance, but I don't think it's vac.

Does it seem to fall off in acceleration as you near the upper limit speed? Any jerkiness at the upper limit? Will it wind up to say 5500rpms in neutral? Did you ever connect the return fuel line? Is the choke open, and staying open?

How do I connect the return line? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> I just have it going to the old pump.

Choke stays open.

The return fuel line (if you don't have a regulator with a return fitting) is plugged where it goes to the tank, or you'll get fuel fumes out of it all the time. I still suspect that you are running too rich. What do the plugs look like now? Did you set the float height on the weber? Float adjustment does NOT like being shipped (dropped, banged around) and it could be way out, and if so, all mixtures will be off because extra or less vacuum is required to pull the fuel over the hill into the jet. The amount of manifold vacuum is what meters the fuel...

And, as I said before, if the fuel pump is overpressuring the float valve, especially at higher rpms, the float bowl will overflow into the carb barrel and you will be VERY rich. I would put an adjustable regulator into the fuel line from pump to carb, and temporarily lead the regulator return line into a clear container (Miller High Life bottle works nice) to see if a LOT of fuel is being bypassed, then hook the return up to the tank return line. You can usually SEE such a condition if it exists at idle by the fuel dripping in the throat of the carb (beware backfires and fried eyes). I hate carburetors...

After you address your fuel pump plumbing I think you need to check your valve timing. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Remove your valve cover and set the engine up at TDC you will then see where the camshaft mark is. This is true about all mechanical repairs it is a process of elimination and sometimes to go forward you need to go backwards. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> If your machine has not operated properly since head install that is the first thing you must do then start to blame other things. It can be overwelming sometimes but hey just imagine trying to charge out that job and a customer is whining to you that its not right. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> Stand back and take a breath go back to the BASICS and check the work that was done wether you did it or not. All people are human and make mistakes <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> Like I made one by putting this post on leftnutts thread when I meant to put it here. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I thought of that one. When crank is at 0 tdc, cam sprocket dowel pin should be just a hair off straight up. Unless it's WAY off, I don't think that's it.