So I've got an older (92) 4x4 with the 22RE. I had coolant in the oil, so, not being bright enough to check places like this first, I tore the head off. When I took it to get checked out/shaved, the guy told me to check the timing cover. It had been quite eaten into by the chain, so I took all the timing gear off too. Now I've got a naked block, but the crosshatches are still in the cylinder bores, so I am not doing the bottom end. The head has been cleaned and checked and I've got a dual row chain conversion kit from LCE and ARP head studs on the way. I'm ready to start putting it back together now. I cannot find a bottoming tap in the right size, so can I chase the block holes for the studs with the old bolts (cleaned of course)? Can I use a medium surface prep disk on the block to head surface and front of the block? It seemed to leave tiny score marks when tested on a nonmating surface. Should I remove the cam journals and put assembly lube in there since they cleaned the head (I had synthetic in there prior)? Do I or do I not use a sealant with the gaskets? I've heard both ways now. Is there anything I should know about prior to embarking on such a journey? Anything in here I should do while its apart? My plan is to run it for a few hundred miles with the oil I put in it and then drp the pan to clean it out along with the pickup screen since the chain guides have crumbled in there. Does that sound reasonable? Any help would be appreciated.

>>>*Lots of questions, I will offer my poor opinion.

On cleaning the bolt holes, a tap should never be used as they will normally remove metal. We use a hacksaw and cut a grove vertically in the threads of an old bolt, this makes a perfect thread chaser.

If using any kind of abrasive pad on a sealing surface, be sure to go very lightly. Areas such as between the cylinders and around coolant passages are easy to erode too much metal, it takes only very little to make a mess. If you can find the non-abrasive type pads you will be better off, they clean but don't remove metal easily.

By all means relube the cam journals. The cam should rotate easily with simple finger pressure when it is correct. It can take a couple of minutes for cold oil to reach the top end at startup. Lube the lobes, too, the exhaust side gets oil last which is why we sometimes see early lobe failures but just on the exhaust side.

The only places sealant is required is areas where two gaskets join, like where the timing cover gasket meets the head gasket. A thin bead the lize of a pencil lead is plenty, too.

I would take that pan off right now and clean it out, otherwise the risk is particles can get drawn into the system, things like the tensioner are sensitive to debris.

This is a fairly easy job, just take your time and use a torque wrench, proper clamping forces are very important....*EB

Thanks. The thread chaser idea is brilliant!

I went over the surfaces fairly lightly already, but head gasket remains can still be seen. What kind of disc isn't abrasive? Should I be removing all old head gasket stuff? After some work on the top of the block, a number 2 could be made out in between the cylinders. That made me think I was on the right track.

I'll look into the oil pan too, but isn't that some work with the axle right there? I guess I should do as suggested with this much time invested, but I wanted to make sure the engine ran prior to ANOTHER undertaking Patience, I guess.

Thank you for your advice; I need it. I've only dealt with German cars prior.

I won't claim to know as much as EB but, I do believe that it is a good idea to remove ALL the old gasket material......If your truck is IFS(post '86) then yes, there is a possibility of some axel work to remove the oil pan but AFAIK, it's easier to put a jack under the tranny and remove the motor mounts and jack it u to get the clearance that you need, you've already got the timing cover and the head off, you might as well clean out the oil pan too. This is what killed the motor in my truck, the PO changed the timing chain and didn't bother to clean out the oil pan, when the motor blew, we found that the pickup was blocked by plastic shavings <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" /> However if you have a solid axel rig(pre '85) then I believe it's as easy and just unbolting it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> Take your time, do it right and do everything, you'll have a dependable rig for another 200K <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

You can also use a fine - med/fine flat stone (sharpening stone) preferably a new one and lightly polish the surface, just let the weight of the stone do the work and move the stone evenly over the entire surface, use it with WD-40 or like and when finished clean the surface with carb cleaner or acetone.

Works the treat!

Chucky MoMo <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

What they said, clean that oil pan out. You'll find stuff like this in there. (Although most of that is the #3 piston!) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> There was a good amount of stuff stuck to the oil pickup when I opened mine up.



<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

CLEAN OUT THE PAN!
heres the entire old plastic timing chain guide that was sufficating the oil sump. EVEN THE MASTER LINK TO THE TIMING
CHAIN WAS BURRIED IN THERE!!! THIS IS ALOT MORE PLASTIC THEN IT SEEMS... http://i1.tinypic.com/nbzmn9.jpg

KEVIN <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Ok, ok! I'll drop the pan. Thank you for the advice. Is there any trick to getting it off? Is it possible to sneak a wrench in and unbolt the pickup so I can slide the pan behind the front diff? I'm going to do my best to find a way not to drop the diff or jack the engine, but I have my doubts. BTW, I have the independant front suspension.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> ya, right after I posted I reread your original post and figured it out <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

again, AFAIK there isn't another way to get it off, the '93 FSM stickied at the top of this forum should help ya, but there's stuff in there for the 3VZE so make sure you've got the right section.

Oh, and '92 is NEW my friend!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

One more question regarding the oilpan: do I need a gasket for this application or can I use RTV? It seems someone before me used silicone of some sort to seal it. There appears to be an indentation for this purpose; is this true? Thanks for the help.