so i have finished the SAS on my 92. wasn't to bad for work wise just a lot of damn grinding. any way thats not the point.

the point is that on my setup i welded blocks and put the hangers on the bottom of the frame instead of throught the fram like from the factory. so far it seems to have worked just fine other than when my buddy welded the blocks they were a little off so my hangers are crocked and it ate through the bushing and i get a death wobble when my speedo reads 30~. i didn't put shocks on her and no steering stabalizer because of a incident from a previous rig were that got smashed and the shock didn't wanna move very easy and made for some arm strong steering, which was very difficult to get back off the trail, so i left it off for less parts to possiby get broken. when i get the chance i will cut the blocks off and straighten them up.

im saying that as a reference for future builds. the other thing that that casued was now the front sits a good 2" higher than the rear. i have what was a 3" lift spring for the front but they are worn and have sag so my guess is about a 2" lift from those-ish. there is a 3 1/2 " block in the rar already and i would like to be rid of that as well as level the ride hight out. this would say to get some 5"lift springs but thats 300 buckaroos from allpro and thats not easy to come by these days.

i tried to search for a custom leaf pack build but i dont think i have the nak for searching i cant find post on them.

that said i am looking for way's to build something to level the truck out with a fairly low budget of should i deal with the west coast style ride height until i save up enough for the springs? i thought about custom hangers for the rear but i dont really wanna put a huge hanger back there either, especially with that block back there already.

the other problem is axle wrap is horrible along with axle hop so some good track bar designs would be appreciated to help with those problems before i rip my pinion apart.

thanks
nick

before doing the track bar and stuff id say definetly get rid of the lift blocks in the rear. they cause major axle wrap. you can also build hybrid spring packs for the rear that will not only flex very well but are dirt cheap parts from a junk yard.

I'd really make some changes in that set up if I were you.

First of all. www.4crawler.com has the info on custom leaf pack building. And Budbuilt makes the best track bars. www.budbuilt.com

I'd seriously consider drilling the hole in the frame from the front hanger. I know it's a pain, but it will solve a number of problems, not the least of which will be excessive hieght, improper front end alignment and front driveline angles. Did I read right that you put blocks under the spring hanger, making them hang down even lower than just welding the spring hanger to the frame? I guess I don't understand that.

As for the rear, defineately get rid of the blocks. You're far better off with longer rear shackles and add-a-leafs if you're current spring set up is not enough or you don't want to get new springs.

As far as not running shocks or steering stabliler. That's not something I would do, even for a trailer queen.

I hope your not driving this rig on the highway too much right now.

Dosn't sound like a tweaks to me...more like a redo. At least, the front shackle hangers. You also need to change the oil pan on the 3.0. With the hysteer, it's gonna hit for sure.

no the hangers in the front are welded to the bottom of the frame, directly underneth the body mount that is there. the thing about the wobble is it happens at 30~ but than it will go away at 35 or if i just tap my breaks. also i am running 36" tsl and those dont help much either along with the fact that the knuckles need re-sealed, and bad.

what happened is i got fired and have had a room mate fall short with rent and have been screwed with the money thing along with having to drive the truck every day, its the only thing i have because of a few deals gone bad and well being fired.

so yeah i have no funds and i need to fix the SAS stuff along with go through the knuckles and replace the seals and bearings. so yeah just in a hard spot under a big rock.


blah blah im rambling and griping i know just needed to get some of it out of my system

thanks
nick

This might go without saying, but if it were me, given your current situation, I wouldn't worry about making it trail worthy at the moment. Worry about making it street safe. That means no need to worry about front driveshaft, rear track bar, etc.

First thing's, first, get the hangers aligned properly and make sure the welds on both the front and rear hangers are good, penetrating welds, because your life and those driving around you depend on it.

I think you're going to have some alignment issues with the springs perches under the frame. At the very least, use stock length front shackles, and if you have drop front hanger, like from A/P, then it might align OK.

Second, if you already got 'em install the shocks and steering stabilizer. They will do you far more good on the street than you realize.

Third, at least replace the knuckle bearings if you think they are worn out. The rest of the axle can wait, since you aren't going to need 4WD right now. You might check and replace or repack the front wheel bearings, however.

Forth, find another job and worry about 4 wheeling when you get your life back in order. Priorities first.

For the wobble, replace the bushings then have the steering caster angle checked. Likely it is off and causing the problem. Easy to add shims to correct the caster angle, if needed. Shackle hanger under the frame can lead to too much caster angle unless you have dropped the front hanger by a similar amount.