I'm seriously considering SASing my Trooper, but I need some "real world" advice on parts and labor costs. First let me say that I won't be doing any of the work as I don't have the aptitude nor the time. I will farm it out someone local and experienced for a few days.

Goal...keep truck as DD for another 1-2 years before retiring it as hunting/offroad truck. Don't want to change driving characteristics too much from current set. A little more lift(1-2" additional is OK). Plan on doing coil springs front and rear and using blend of new/used components.

So, here are my crude estimates: 1 Waggy Dana 44(purchased), Rodeo Dana 44 rear($300), 2 Aussie Lockers($500 total), front and rear 5.13 gears($400 total), front coils(tbd- $120), front shocks($160 total). Not sure what steering components/knuckles will run. What else am I missing and how do these estimates sound?

Anyone want to guesstimate labor hours, assuming all parts were purchased and whole job could be done at one time? Thanks in advance...go easy on me.

I really couldn't hazard a guess to have a shop do the work. The general consensus is $1500-2000 if you do the work your self. I would think that could easily double once you factor in a shops labor.

Count on $400 or so for gear setup, the front and rear will need link mounts. These can be purchased or fabricated. Since you're looking at paying a shop, it would probably be cheaper to buy all the bracket mounts and such.

Don't forget steering <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />, the Indy4x kit includes the basics for $289.

New driveshafts, front and rear, figure $400 or so if you modify and re-tube your stock shafts.

Depending on your choice of rod ends, assuming you're using mostly stock stuff on the rear, you can easily spend $60 per link by the time you get inserts and jam nuts.

I think your goal of 1-2" higher, probably totaling 4-5" total lift is going to be tough. It can be done, but seems to take more time and attention to detail than an overall 6-7" of lift. Not speaking from personal experience (yet <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />), but it seems like you really have to squeeze things in to keep the lift low.

Just some things to consider.
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

best questimation is to double your parts cost for someone to do the labor. Andre's right, you typically look at no less than $1500-2k for just parts. if a shop is doing all the work, you'll easily pass $3k in labor and parts.

-Rob

Do our guesses really matter? Find out exactly what you want first, or the range of what you want (best case to worst case scenario) and get some quotes from some shops. Explain what you want done and if you are buying the parts beforehand or they are or how exactly it will work. I bet you could find some shops on pirate if you want to really look around. Don't forget friends with garages that might want to do it. I think you can spend any amount of money on parts and labor depending on what you want and what you'll settle with, this is not like, "what is the going rate for a water pump replacement on a 3.5?"


Also look at Toy axles, they can be built up pretty tough and might be easier to find.

Thanks guys....your feedback has really helped because you speak from experience. Yes your guesses really matter because they are a lot more accurate. I have done extensive searches and read hours of articles, but none of that replaces conventional wisdom. Just trying to find out what kind of $$ at minimum I'm looking at, before I jump in completely.

Well CPOM is right...you can spend almost any amount of $$$ on an SAS. It just depends on what you want. Keeping the lift low is going to be tough, however you could do a SUA up front. This will help keep the lift low, and for the most part seems to be the more straightforward set-up. As for swapping in a Rodeo Dana 44, if you could find a 2nd gen, then the link mounts are already there(not sure if they are in the right location of not) At least the brackets would be there to either use as templates or relocate all together.

As for labor costs, for a SUA, I would assume(all I can do since I don't know for sure) I would guess you are looking at around $1500 in labor. This would include gear set-up and locker install. It seems that with a SUA, welding the spring hanger upfront, and a shackle hanger(or drilling through the frame if possible) Is the majority of the welding and custom fabrication. Of course those parts can be bought online also, cutting some costs there.

I hope that helps. I don't have any personal experience, but from those that I have talked to, seem to be pretty consitent. $1500-2000 for labor depending on shop rate and extra custom work they do beyond a "Standard SAS"

I would also ask on the Toy boards here and over at Pirate. There might be a shop near you that they would all recommend, and since I have heard our SAS is similiar, you could call them up and get an idea on what they charge for labor.

Good luck with it.

Steve

Forget the 2nd gen rearend,gear coices are <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> and the factory link mounts will not work for a link setup,way to much anti squat built into them from the factory--the upper links are too far apart and way to short.
Yes,you could set them up by cutting all the junkoff but with the pinion size coming into play,I would scrap that idea.

Ford 9" is a strong rearend and gear/locker choices are abundant and fairly cheap.

I think your parts est. are low--shipping is a factor also.

Also the labor to have a shop cleanup the frame alone is a factor,Isuzu's have lot's of crap welded onto them.

Don't forget the braking system--

As for front coils consider some stock type jy coils for setup and then fine tune lift with aftermarket springs....
so pick a spring that has lift availible.


gotta go
Goodluck and have fun with parts resources.

bansil

Here's the *budget* SAS from the research I have done so far.

Front axle hub to hub toyota 8" 4.3 or 4.1 ratio open diff 200
front axle rebuild kit 75
front axle high steer arms, tie rod, draglink, fj80 TRends 429
front leaves from isuzu or any other 50 something inch cheapones 100
toy front hanger (weld it on, minimal fab, setup for toy fr axle) 150
fr rotors from fj 80 vented 80
front calipers from IFS toyota 150
front lockright 200
front 27 spline longfield brifs 400
front shackles + bushings 150
front wheel bearings 80
f+r wheel spacers 200
rear axle toy IFS 150
rear rotors and calipers 200
welded rear diff 0
63 inch chevy springs 100
rear hangers and shackle kit 150
toy IFS steering box 75
all stainless brake lines 150
cheap shocks 200
total 3240

this is without regearing, and thsi setup will run 35s easy from what ive researched and 37s if you go really easy

add on 20% more for stuff like:
steering lines/fittings, brake hard lines, misc hardware and anything else I forgot.

I chose the toy box becuase it matches up with the aftermarket toy high steer kits available and it can easily be tapped (by yourself) for hydro assist in the future.

You could always forgo the locker and longfields, wait and buy the cromo 30 spline set for 635, then buy a locker and run 38s no problem.

You could say I like the toyota junk huh? I just like staying import based <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />. Front and rear interchangeable third members, drop out design carry one spare 3rd and you are good to go.

Geeze. I think that I spent almost $3k on mine and I did everything but the gear swap myself. I had a list of everything that I spent money on for my SAS. If I can find it, I'll post what the break down of costs was.

So figure another $1000 to regear, and at least $700 for tires... I don't see how anyone could do everything involved in a SAS for $1500. I've never done a SAS; but if someone does none of their own work, I'd be amazed if they got completely set up with leaves for less than $4k (more for coils).