Don't pay to get it done, do it yourself. Only takes an hour or so and the cost of a gasket set. Easy to do and with doing it yourself you don't have to worry if the mechanic did it right or not. Lots of peeps here to give advice if you've never done it before as well. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

This can still happen with a SOHC or DOHC engine when the oil passages get blocked and/or sludged up. Thus my recommendation earlier to run 0W to help clean the passages out. Obviously this isn't the case with the thread starter since it's a rebuild. Would it be possible that the head gasket is blocking or partially blocking an oil passage? I don't think so, but it doesn't hurt to ask. How is your oil pressure by the way?

Oh yeah, my original quote reply was that I think most all 3.0's have loud-a$$ injectors...except for mine *knock on wood* My best friend claims that using 91 octane gas along with- you guessed it- injector cleaner helps with this, but his injectors are still louder than mine. Then again, I use BG 44k (the good fuel system cleaner) and MotorOilAdditive as much as possible which I do think helps as well. Now that I'm plugging BG products I should also mention how great the intake/combustion chamber works. But unless you have a pressurized container or the right tool it needs to be done at a shop.

OK, now I'm just completely off-topic. But I do agree with EB (as always) and others that you could have timing chain slack or need a better quality oil filter. I personally prefer Pure One filters and IMHO they're even better than OEM.

~R

My pressure is good so far. I'm about 3/4 up the gauge when cold and at about 1/3 when warm. I have 146k on the clock and run 15w50 in the summer and 10w30 in the winter (I don't really call it winter, but it does get cool down here for a few weeks). I use Mobil 1 in all my cars and run a Black Magic electric fan to keep everything cool. I also run a NAPA Gold filter. I believe it's a Wix filter as it has a Wix stamp on it. When my Truck was new, I brought it back to the dealer because I thought all the valves were loose. They told me, "It's the injectors and there's nothing they could do about it". I'm currently in the middle if replacing the steering gear as it started leaking all over my driveway.

Take care......and good luck......

>>>*Here is one, doubt if it is new but we had a customer complain of a ticking noise on a fresh 3VZE.

Hood up, I listened, sounded normal to me, told him so.

I could see by his expression he wasn't buying it, and I kinda don't want crabby customers that just dropped 2 grand with us, so I crawled under the dash.

Yep!

There is a rubber looking seal around the hole where wires, etc goes through, it had come loose while the engine was out and slid back inside.

So I stuck it back in place, nice and tight. Noise all gone, happy customer. He was only hearing what he couldn't hear before, the engine basically just running and the injectors ticking away. That seems to telegraph under there for some reason......*EB

On that note. My factory heat shield on my firewall is coming off. Any thoughs on how to replace it? Do I get one from the dealer or make my own (aftermarket)? Mine's fairly quiet while in the cab. I wonder if some soundproofing would improve it more? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

>>>*Probably it's pretty easy to make one, if you have handy hands and most *Yota guys and gals seem to.

The one I referred to looked like the usual little plug they use on all vehicles, just a split ring made out of some kind of rubber. Wasn't even very big.

*It sure made a racket in the cab with it slid down the wires, surprised even me....*EB

i just noticed my truck does this and i only use factory toyota filters. i dont know how long its been doing it b/c i cant hear it unless i open up my door and listen for it. i havent changed my oil in about 5k so maybe thats why <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />. the last time i changed it was at the end of january too. it just sneeks up on my since i drive soo much. toyota reccommends to change your oil every 10k or one year under normal driving conditions and every 5k or 6 months in severe conditions so i think im good.

I change the oil every 3-4k miles. I think 10,000 is too far. I drive my truck hard and in lots of stop and go traffic. If it were mostly highway miles, I would go farther. I use Mobil 1 synthetic. I know I could go longer, but at $22 for a 5 quart container at Wal-Mart....cheap insurance.......

Hey Guys_____ Just a little update on my ôtickingö problem. Well I went back to the shop that did the rebuilt, left it for a few days, and the verdict (after taking valve cover off and looking around) was, he couldnÆt find anything wrong and suggested an aftermarket filter. I have been going to this guy on and off for many years andöö trustöö him and feel he has integrity. ItÆs a machine shop and I assumed engine rebuilding being one of there strengths. So, IÆm left a little bewildered, (does the guy know whatÆs heÆs going) or WHAT?? ? Thanks in advance_____ BAYRUNNER

I don't pay anything for valve adjustments. It takes me about 40 minutes.
My truck is carbed so when I start it in the morning I let it turn over for about 4 to 5 seconds before tapping the gas and starting it up. It gives the oil pump a chance to throw some oil in the head. I guess with fuel injection that's not an option?