I have been doing mucho research on the WIRE and off the wire about doing an SAS. What I have come up with is that there are several axle options available for me to choose from. It seems that most people are running D44 axles from the Waggy's. I am not sure exactly how many people are running Toyota's though. As well I believe I recall seeing one person running a D60 as well.

I believe that I am going to run Toyota axles, the reasoning behind this will follow. Please tell me if I am wrong about my information I have found. As far as strength it seems that Toyota Axles are pretty strong, especially the 84-85 models because they have a full length gusset weld that didn't exist in prior axles.

Toyota designed beefier differentials in the mid 1980s when it came out with a turbo 22RE and later V-6. These diffs were limited to the rear axle, but Toyota was kind enough to use the same bolt patterns for the front and rear axle housings, so these stronger diffs are a direct bolt on modification for the front end. Even better, when Toyota came up with a brand new high pinion front diff for it's Land Cruiser 80 series in 1990, it decided to forgo the old 9" Land Cruiser diff for an 8" diff that also just so happens to fit in the front mini-truck axles, but is much stronger.

When combined with the latest offerings from Longfield with 30 spline birfields, the Toyota mini-truck axle can almost approach the strength of a Dana 60, in a much smaller and lighter package.

its a matter of opinion and what's easily available in your area. stock for stock, the Toy and D44 are very close in strength. each can be built to be plenty strong... while Toy has Longfields, the D44 has CTMs and chromo shafts... so again, it boils down to preference. you won't make an overwhelming arguement that either one is stronger or cheaper to build.

-Rob

they can both be built to dana 60 strength (well, non a built 60) as far as axle shafts and joints go. there are things you can do about the ring and pinion (heat treat, cryo), then you need to worry about steering/hubs/housing bending/etc. one big thing I see people talk about with the d44 is balljoints going fairly often with big tires. toyota's are exploding hubs and steering studs. give and take, pros and cons. toyota would be lighter and you'd get more clearance, but the d44 has the width.

look at who you wheel with--if it's a bunch of toyota dudes, maybe do the yota axle, you all might fair better with each other having spares everyone can use.

i have a yoda axle under my trooper not finished yet but progresing.

Any photos of your progress to share? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> You should start your own build thread! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Ruby how do you make your avatar change like that it is pretty neat

Oh, finally, somebody notices. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> On my webserver, I have several avatar sized images. I just have a perl program running in the background that pseudo-randomly swaps one of these images for my current avatar every 5 seconds. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />




Jim

for a while I thought you just had some kind of self image anxiety and changed everytime you logged on haha. Sorry about derailing the thread back to the topic at hand.

I would go with whatever your friends wheel as has been suggested. My friends are a huge resource to me of toyota knowledge, spare parts and wheeling experience, so it was an easy choice both for resource wise and financially. I scored a wyoming rust free 84 front with original paint on it from one of my friends for short money.

Besides that I do like the third member style, and keeping it "import". Plus I went with toy t-case and trans....

I don't think the hi pinion LC 3rd member stuff and cryoed r+p will be a factor until you get really crazy on the rocks with big tires and monster gearing.