OK, so the nightmare of tearing this thing down is almost done. I need to get the oil pan out on an IFS 4wd truck. Factory manual says drop the diff, but people here said jack the motor up. I tried to jack it all over the place, but I only have a floor jack and it needs to sit right behind the oil pan. Does it come out the back? If not, must I remove the steering linkages to get it out the front as well as jacking it like 2 feet in the air? Help please! I've reached into the pan and unbolted the two bolts from the pickup to the oil pump and the one support on the passenger side of the block. There appears to be another bolt for the baffle, but its really on there and in deep. Please, some sort of detailed step by step would make my day (week) as all the manuals I have say "remove oil pan." Thanks for any advice!

had the same problem...
step 1- pull all oil pan bolts
step 2- unbolt 4 motor mouts
step 3- jack engine up from front of tranny
step 4- drop oil pan down far enough to get your hand and a 12mm wrench (preferably gear wrench but regular box wrench works) take out the 4 bolts holding the oil sump (oil pickup) 2 at the front pass side 1 half way down the block on the pass side and the last bolt is in the 3rd (center of the 5) main crank bearing caps. USE A FLASH LIGHT TO SEE IT AND ATTACK IT FROM THE FRONT OR THE DRIVERS SIDE FROM UNDER THE TRUCK. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />
step 5- pull oil pan out

step6- check for timing chain guide debris <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

you can kinda see the bracket that bolts to the bearing cap in this pic..
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/engine/54descript.pdf

hope this helps <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
KEVIN

I took the 3 bolts that hold the front diff in place out and the driveshaft off. The front diff was hanging there and I could rotate it around. Ended up with the flange pointing stright down. The oil pan came out with a little moving around, but I didn't need to jack anything up. I did disconect the passenger end of the steering stabilizer and moved it out of the way. It went back in alot easier than it came out. The front diff was a little bit of a problem to line back up but wasn't so bad once I had a friend to put the front bolt in as I moved it to the right place.

Since I've got the motor mounts unbolted and nothing done to the diff (yet), I'm going to try jacking around with it again tonight. I've got the pan unbolted and 3 of the four bolts holding in the sump/pickup. I was worried about the one on the bearing cap as it is a real B...ear to get off. By gear wrench, what do you mean (I guess I'm technically an idiot)? Is that a normal box with 6 points or something? I tried it with a normal box wrench, but didn't want to apply too much pressure because of the obvious fear. Would a 6 point socket be a better choice? Thank you guys SO much for your help. I was to a point of desperation. I wish I had internet at my garage!

It took me 3 tries to get the motor to jack just right.
It's pretty tight, but once you get the right angle on the motor it will go. Good luck.

-Indy

bikedoc,

gearwrench = racheting combo wrench

the box end of the combo wrench rachets-- sometimes you flip them to rachet the opposite way, sometimes they have a little lever to switch rachet direction, like a socket. great for tight places where you don't want to remove the wrench from the bolt/nut as it's a pain to get it back on it for another rotation. although i usually don't severely torque on them. commonly, i think they're 12pt.

question for those who drop the diff, is there any more room for RTV application doing it this way than raising the engine?

when i did the timing chain and raised the engine, there wasn't much room... i guess if the truck was jacked up and then the diff dropped, there'd be more room?

tom

Thanks! I've got another pair of hands coming to help, so I might as well drop the diff to give me clearance for RTVing and reattachment. Fun, fun!

do yourself a favor and buy a can of Permatex The Right Stuff -- it's the only stuff to use for oil pan gaskets.

Actually, Toyota seal packing 102 (FIPG) p/n 00295-00103 is THE right stuff. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />

Sure is a pain to get off if you need to pull the pan later on though. Does it's job VERY well.