Just installed a new Weber DGEV conversion kit with a Carter P4070 electric fuel pump. I removed all the vacuum hoses except the Vacuum advance. There is a noticeable improvement in driveability but it diesels when I try to turn it off. I've plugged all the vacuum fittings and removed the vacuum device box on the driver's side fender well. Any ideas? I'll try to get pictures posted soon so you can see the fuel pump block-off and throttle cable adapter I made. Thanks in advance and sorry if this question has been answered elsewhere. I did a search, but didn't come up with anything.

yeah, i get that too. I just let the clutch out in first with my foot on the brake right as I'm turning the ignition off.

I believe I had this problem even after install a new head so I dont think it's carbon build up... i'm not even sure what causes dieseling. maybe some else can chime in.

i wouldn't worry about it too much though. just try the clutch/1st/brake trick.

got this from another site:

reasons for dieseling:
1 idle speed to high
2 ignition timing incorrect
3 incorrect spark plug heat range
4carbon build up in combustion chamber
5 valves sticking
6 bcdd or ficd system not operating correctly
7 valve clearance incorrect
8 intake air leak
9 egr system not operating correctly
10 fuel shut off system not operating correctly

I've been using the clutch/1st/brake trick all day. That works, but I want to find a solution. It never did it before the Weber/ electric fuel pump install. I'll try tech support tomorrow and see if they have a clue. Thanks.

a few pics of the conversion here:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/oewii...hoo.com/ph/oewii@sbcglobal.net/my_photos

the before and after pictures are so funny because of how complicated the before picture is compared to the after.

I'd be pretty worried about your fuel pump if you take this truck off road. A piece of wood is going eat your pump and wiring eventually.

Also your fuse should really be up in the engine compartment closer to the battery. Not sure if it should be behind or in front of the relay. You used a relay right?

If you happen to catch the +12 lead wire on a log or puncture it or whatever and it makes ground with the frame there's nothing breaking that circuit back to the battery. You'll just end up with a lot of heat or fire or something else bad.

Yes, I know. The Pump was a LOT larger than I expected. That is the pump they recommended at Top End Performance and I've heard it recommended elsewhere. The problem is without a body lift and with a SWB it was hard to find a mounting location. I'm also going to encase the wiring to help protect it a little better.
Also, where exactly did you draw power for your pump?

1 idle speed to high - not likely
2 ignition timing incorrect - check it, can cause hot spots
3 incorrect spark plug heat range - same as 2
4carbon build up in combustion chamber - see treatment below
5 valves sticking - not likely
6 bcdd or ficd system not operating correctly - Huh?
7 valve clearance incorrect = not likely
8 intake air leak - or other lean out like too small jets, or:
9 egr system not operating correctly - is yours leaking?
10 fuel shut off system not operating correctly - you don't have one, do you? No wires to the carb except maybe a choke heater???

I see the vac hose is off the egr, but are there deposits in there that at holding the valve pintle open? I'd consider making a block off plate for the egr valve location, too, or tap and plug the ports, which are close to 3/8" npt pipe plug size...

Try fogging water spray into the carb with the engine at a high idle, like 1500-2000rpms. This should blow out any carbon deposits in the combustion chamber and on top of the piston, and those are what commonly get white hot and provide a source of ignition to cause the dieseling, like a glow plug. I've been able to kill a dieseling engine by stepping on the gas, sometimes in rapid succession, and thus flooding it out. Kinda like putting out a fire by dumping gas on it, right? Still works.

Many of the Webers have a solenoid on the primary progression/idle jet- it closes the jet when you shut off the key to prevent just the problem you're having.

The down side is that only a carb with a large progression jet holder can be converted to the solenoid- some of them have small holders, (it's actually a different casting and drilling) and the solenoid has a pretty big mounting boss.

Call TEP- they MUST know about this, and should be able to send you a solenoid for $50 or less. If they don't know what I'm talking about, ask to speak to someone else- or call Pierce Manifolds!

hth,
Toby <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />