When replacing cv halfshafts, Do I have to split the lower ball joint for removal. Heres what i can remember what to do.
1. Remove lockout hub dial, then hub boby.
2. remove snap ring from stub axle end.
3. Unbolt flange bolts from front differential.
Will the lower balljoint have to be separated for additional clearance for removal?

I'm about to do mine in a week or two. I'm told you don't need to separate the ball joints if you remove the studs from the inner half shaft connection. I think there are 8 or 10 nuts/bolds. They can be hammered out. Put the nut on a few threads so you don't screw up the threads. The half shaft should then swing out (to the rear) and come out. Nice looking truck by the way........ <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Good Luck.

For the two times i have done it, I only separated the uppers and everything worked out fine, the second one I almost didn't at all, i almost had that thing removed without the upper or lower ball joints separated...but that cv was also grenaded <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />, so it had a lot of play to work with <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />.

edit:
don't know anything about removing them withough separating the ball joint....i guess it would work...maybe? can't remember how much room there was, it was just much easier/more space to work with when the upper was off

So you are sayin to make my job easier split a ball joint to get more acess and to not get pissed off. Im changing the shafts cuz they are stock and has a slit in the boot on one. its a 1989. 205k miles but 4wd was used frequently by previous owner too.

You don't have to seperate the ball joints, I didn't, I didn't hammer out the pressed in studs either, it just takes alot of pushing and pulling to squeeze them out, I did this about a month ago. However that being said, I like do things the hard way, soooooo it'd be a heck of alot easier to seperate the ball joint, for the lower, you'll probally have to pry it away from the lower A-arm.....they normally don't wanna come out.

If you're gonna do it that way, I'd check your ball joints, now would be a good time to replace it need be. Also it'd be a good time to inspect the wheel bearings and repack the hubs, you're already half way there so go ahead and do it, it'll make your truck happy for another 100K <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Oh and for that elusive 52mm socket, check out marlin's site, he's got one that'll do the trick for only $25 IIRC.

Good luck, lemme know if you have any questions I can answer <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

54mm... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/

54mm-- and a 1/2" to 3/4" drive adapter.

Doh! *smack self*

Or you can use a 2 1/8. It is 3/4 drive also. I got mine at Sears for twenty two dollars, but that was at least five years ago.

It is definitely much easier to get the axle out if you pound the bolts out of the flange on the front differential. You need to whack then pretty hard and often several times. Since there isn't much room to swing a hammer with the A-arm in the way, I used a long breaker bar. I placed that against the bolt and the other end of the breaker bar was outside of the brake disk. That gave me plenty of room to swing a heavy mallet. Turning the wheel all the way to one side give you a straighter shot at it. Don't forget to put a nut on the end of the bolts so you don't mushroom them and damage the threads when you beat on them.