I'm currently rebuilding a 3.0 and was thinking of the replacing the sensor. Is it common practice to replace the sensor or just the connecting wire?

From what I gather, the KS on the 3.0 is buried once you get the thing back together, so it's simply a convenient time to replace them. Inspect/repair wire as necessary. Toss the old one in a tote as a spare.

Replace both. When I rebuilt mine twp yrs ago every mech I talked to both dealer and private told me to replace both, otherwise I would be pulling it down in about a month to replace them.

For some reason(no could explain why), after pulling the top down and rebuilding, the knock sensor goes bad(even if not removed).

No one on the board who rebuilt the 3.0 has been able to get away w/o replacing the KS & wire, some who didn't do it at the time of the rebuild, have had to tear it back down and do it later.

Also if you don't already know, Do Not reuse the head bolts, they are a torque to yeild bolt and are one time use only.

So is the sensor wire spliced like the fuel injectors, or is that just a high-damage area? Or is it a shielded wire?
I've got one on a 22RE harness to repair that I'm goin' thru.

Looks like replacing it is the thing to do.

Kewlynx the connecting wire is a male/female so it's plug n play.

Thanks for the help guys.

The KS sits in the center between the 3-5 and 4-6 cyls., and the wire runs under the injectors along the d-side head.

Unlike the 22r that sits in the open, the 3.0's doesn't get any airflow at all, the intake plenum covers it from above and the T-belt Cover prevents airflow from the front.You don't even make much contact with it when removing the wiring harness, its just seems any contact is too much. I am not sure if it is just the wire that goes bad or both. The dealership tech told me that it has become standard practice to just replace them both, I guess they couldn't figure out which went bad either.

Thanks Snowtoy. It seems best to replace both than to R&R the intake manifolds later.


Thanks

Daniel

When you go to put the valve covers back on, check the FSM to see if it recommends putting RTV anywhere. I didn't have access to the FSM when I did mine and the P-side cover leaked for about 6 months.