I bet the V8 one is probably cheaper and more readily available in junkyards and auto parts stores considering the Camaro SS is more popular than the base model. Have you seen this radiator? It is a big mofo. The tanks stick out a lot. Just a heads up. I got one from a yard and returned it since it was so wide. About 30-31" I think.

Not the best of pictures but... Kind of like this? The passenger's side should drop down probably another 3/4" but last I checked the hood will actually close with it as-is.

Chris you know what port this motor uses for:

brake booster?
evaporative emissions purge?


there's a little T fitting on the passenger side of the upper intake manifold. The port facing the firewall goes to the fuep pressure regulator. Where does the port facing forward go?

What does the Throttle body vacuum port on the passenger's side connect to?

Brake booster: Tube on rear of upper intake manifold

Throttle body passenger's side connection goes to the back port on the EVAP canister purge solenoid.

The Evap can goes to the rear solenoid on the passenger's side, right in line with the #6 injector, the rear port of that solenoid.

Tomorrow I'll take a pic of the under hood vac routing sticker on the Camaro and post it in this thread. If you need engine pics let me know, I can do that too.

This should answer your questions. If not, I can always send you more pics of specific parts. I just love how this motor has almost no vac lines, unlike the old 2.6L's tangled mess.

cool thanks man Chris. I am 99% sure the answer is Yes, but is the evap canister switch and evap canister purge valve computer controlled?

I'm sure the sollenoid is computer controlled. I think when they went to OBDII almost anything even loosely associated with the engine is controlled by that big ol' brain box. I still need to sort out the Camaro wiring, and pull the stock computer wiring out of my loom. Lots of fun stuff to do still.

Regarding the heater core tubes sticking straight out -- I have capped mine for the near-term, but eventually plan to swap the plastic unit currently in place to a brass replacement unit. It may take some scrounging to find one, but I have seen them in the junkyard.

The benefit to the brass boxes is that I can cut and braze 90-degree fittings onto the box to tuck the hoses right up against the firewall. Getting the tubes through the firewall may be a bugger, but I think it is possible, with the right alignment.

I need this space since I kept the stock Ford thermactor-injection crossover tube on the back of my 302.

Randii

Finally... Progress!!! I got the York installation DONE. I haven't been putting in a lot of work on this, but am still surprised how many hours I have just in this one project. Notice the lack of clearance between the plastic idler pully just above the stock compressor (lower left of the first picture) and the bottom of the mount? I had to buy a "button head" bolt for that mount hole into the bottom of the York, and still had to turn down the bolt head, along with the plastic pully.

Sorry for the bad quality of the "top-down" picture, I was trying to show how tight it is on the water lines. I cut down and tapped the factor heater hose lines so I could run barbs. I still need to get it outside, fill the block with water, and blow out those two passages. I got a lot of the filings/garbage out of there with screwdrivers and such but there's still more in there and I'd rather not have to change the water pump after the first hr of run time.

I still have to add oil which is why the "sight tube" on the back is empty, but other than that it's ready to go.

Next is to crawl into the engine compartment and hack off the mounts for the front diff... Oh joy.....

Just a thought, perhaps you could buy/find/fab a very shallow oil pan and do some sort of an external reservoir rather than hacking out the front axle.

BTW, this is a really cool swap. If I had a DD and my wife's van was fixed and I had a garage at home, I'd be doing a 4.3l swap right now.