Looks good. What is the story behind the alt pulley? Did you cut and weld a v-belt pulley to it?


So you just used steel NPT fittings & tap for the heater line connections?

You actually going to deal with the hassle of keeping the A/c?

I want to eventually do a SAS anyway since the IFS system is, shall we say, less than stellar when it comes to articulation. But thanks for the idea on the shallow oil pan, and actually I did give that a little minor thought.

The 45* pipe elbows are aluminum and the nipples are brass, so I shouldn't have corrosion problems.

Yes, I welded a V-belt pulley to the stock alternator pulley, and learned a bit about how a V-belt pulley is made and how to use a lathe in the process.

Rover finally made it into the shop/garage today. I've got a lot of junk... Errr I mean stuff, to pick up yet but at least it's inside w/o the hood so I can start removing the front diff mounts and the old engine mounts. Progress should begin tonight.

I still have the 2.6L with calmini cam for sale along with the whole front diff and cv/half shafts if anybody wants to make me an offer...

An hr or two with a sawzall and Makita side grinder did away with the old engine mounts and front diff mounts. Maaaaan is that stuff THICK where it mounts to the frame.

After a couple of test fits it looks like I'm going to have to 'barrow' about 2" from the front half of the passenger's side wheel well to clear the York compressor.

I pulled the driver's side exhaust and cut it like I did the passenger's side, months ago. Tomorrow I'll get it ground and refit, then migged back together. I'm crossing my fingers AND toes hoping my welded up cast iron exhaust manifolds hold. I V-ground the joint and am making small welds of about an inch then moving 180* and making another small weld. Do about four of those and walk away to let it cool. Repeat until the full 360* joint is welded then repeat to build up about 3 'layers' until filled.

I need a Dana 300 for this project. Anybody out there have one they want to part with for an Isuzu worthy project???

Chris

Last night I got the manifold cut into 3 pieces, shaped, and tacked together. Today I spent an hr and a half welding it all back together. Does anybody happen to know of a way to check the integrity of a cast exhaust manfild without running it on a vehicle???

Post pics of what you did to the manifolds. Hopefully the welds hold for you.

I've got the passenger's side engine bracket/mount made using the original Camaro mount. Tomorrow I should finalize the position and weld it to the frame. It's set way back and high and I seem to recall somewhere, about leaving some space for circulation around the trans so the tunnel doesn't get overly hot. Does anybody have an opinion on this??? I know, it's my project, but I always like to get views, then make up my own mind. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

The great spaghetti war has begun. I've got the Amigo's wiring harnes all opened up and about 1/2 or so of the wires figured out. That's the easy 1/2 that went from the computer straight to the engine, now I need to figure out the other 1/2. I have a 94TSM and a fits-all Chilton. Between the two they're pretty good for mechanical, the electrical is only so-so though. Chilton doesn't cover it all, and the 94 is a little different.

The Camaro radiator and fans are almost in.







Yep, the closest ring of plastic to the PS bolt that I clearanced is indeed the outter edge of the fan:

SOA is done enough that I can at least roll it around, clean the shop floor a bit, and work on my list of "before motor installation" things to do. I moved the front of the rear spring purches up 2" to help take a bit of the lift out. I was worried about losing the odd offset on the frame, and getting things aligned 'just so', so redrilled the stock mounts instead of making new ones like Turbo (Perhaps 'boosted' would be more apropriate) Dan Houlster did. If I had to do it again, I think I'd just hack the mounts off and make new ones, it would come out cleaner and wouldn't have been any more work in the long run. I still have all the smaller stuff to do with the SOA: drop the brake line bracket, install the brackets for the E-brake cables, relocate the brackets for the seat belt reinforcements, find a good set of shocks with the right length throw, drop the bump stops, centering the axle 'dead on', and set the pinion angle once the driveline is installed.

Funny thing is, it looks TALL now. I measured our Full Sized Jeep Cherokee that's also on 35s and both the frame, and body are within 1" of identical heights.

Here's how he's sitting as of today: