Lordy how time flies... Waaay back in February, Cpom asked for pics of the manifolds. I'm about to mount them up with new gaskets and super hi-temp copper RTV. Soooo here are the pics, finally.





NIIIIIICE pic of some bugger welds here. I was using short little welds to try to keep the heat down and only heard a couple "CRACK!" noises through the whole procedure. I V ground both sides of all the welds, so the weld is just as thick as the manifolds. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, BIG TIME.

I finally got the output shaft changed from 2wd to 4wd. A note for those of you who are crazy enough to try this on a 700R4 or early 4L60E: When you remove about 1/2 of the transmission guts, and come to the large snap ring that engages the transmission case, STOP. Remove the snap ring from the end of the output shaft and push it out the back of the transmission. You don't have to remove all the 'stuff' that occupies the back half of the trans. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> Really, it's not rocket science as long as you're really careful not to displace or lose any of the check balls in the valve body and on the other other side of the spacer plate. It does require an INCH/lb torque wrench. Or at least it's something that would be good to have as a lot of the bolts are 8ft/lb.

I still have a long way to go before the engine is installed, but at least it's progress...

I'm finally back at it and feel bad after looking at this thread, it's been years...

Before leaving off last I had bent the heater core tubes with a box end wrench but wasn't happy with it:



I never was happy with the way it looked, clearances, etc so went scrounging the junk yards and came up with what appeared to be the perfect core from a 94 Rodeo:



Unfortunately the new core is about 1/2" longer than the old original. I had to modify the 'left'(in this picture) hand side of the box so the core can stick through:





And these last two are from the trial fit. The heater core *JUST* barely clears the AC box inside the vehicle. I think I'd be doing good to get a couple of pieces of paper between them. But I'm happy to say it does fit and puts the nipples pretty much parallel to the firewall.

The plasma cutter and grinder came out over the last two days to cut the IFS from the frame. To those of you who have done that, congrats on having lots of stamina. I'm still worrying the brackets off the frame. I have no doubt you could lift the entire rig by ONE of the mounts for the front cross member. Once I have the frame rails cleaned up and the mounts for the torsion bars removed and the frame cleaned up back there, I can finish up the engine installation. Take it easy everybody and have a great day.

The front suspension is stripped off the frame sans the mount for the idler arm which I'll remove later. Torsion bars are removed and I'm ready to install a front axle... When I figure out how I'm going to suspend it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Here's the debris field I wound up with:

Wow...the carnage

With a cutting torch and a saw's all... life is good <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Now I know why I prefer Jeep...

after I ... Just Empty Every Pocket

I have .... Just Enough Extra Parts

and I can say...

Fix It Again Tony ...

We have progress! I've got the frame cut where I want the rear spring mount, put the 'outside' plates in that true up the bend in the frame. The front spring hangers are installed and about 1/2 welded solid. (pic 3)

Notice the difference in the radiator core support? The lack of the part that hangs down? I cut that out and put a piece of angle iron in there, along with a cross out of round stock that you can't see behind the AC condenser. (pic 2)

The winch slides under the condenser and shouldn't stick out much, if any, further than the factory grill. I'm not sure what I'm going to do for a bumper or tow/recovery points yet.

The springs are going to sit pretty close to level and I'm still hoping that even SOA it's not going to be insanely tall.

I've also moved the radiator core support mounts/front body mounts on top of the frame. I've got more time in the core support reworking than I do in the spring mounts.

The little 'stubs' of frame sticking out are 2" X 1/4 wall that's pounded down inside the frame and welded in several inches back where it hits the factory tubes, and is also welded to the front of the frame/cross member. 2.5" 1/4 wall is over the top of that, welded to the frame, and the inner 2" box. Those stubs aren't ever going anywhere. Add to that all the individual pieces will be bolted together before it's finished. If my 400 miles of welds fail, bolts will keep it in one piece while we, or someone else, are dangling off the winch. Not being an engineer(neither was my Dad) I was taught to built it 10X heavier and 3X stronger than it has any need to be.

Note my super $12 spring alignment tool? 1" DOM .120 wall with 3/4" round stock inside that, with the ends turned down to fit the bushings. Even after welding I can slide the pins through all 4 of the holes for the front shackle mounts with minimal fussing and the amount of slop in the setup is also minimal. I figure spring bushings and manufacturing tolerances are probably as sloppy as the tool.

I kind of wish you could resize the edit window... And sorry for the messy text.

Comments? Questions? Let me hear it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Hey, eventual progress is better than no progress... which is where my project has been for a long time, now. Keep up the good work! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />