I dont know about that. Balance shafts have been around for a long time. My 94 4.3 has one.

I know of alot of older German motors that have them.

The silent shaft 2.6 Mits motor was introduced in the 70's.

Porsche licensed the technology from Mitsubishi. One of the Mitsubishi features included locating the shafts at differant heights to not only cancle out the second order vibration from the differances in piston acceleration of TDC VS BDC but it also it helps to reduce vibration from the power pulse.

Kevin

And canceling a second order vibration took some serious math!

Ya know, I REALLY miss that.. it was a feeling of tin-can power as I went through first and second <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> I seriously loved the way that felt. It really wasn't that bad though, little vibration in the mirror, and just more feeling out of the stickshift and body.

I DID however have brand new motor mounts so that may have helped. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Brendan.

As I've posted before, I will never again build a 2.6 without the balance shafts. I got real tired of welding up the p/s pump bracket. I also took out the a/c compressor bracket in about 5 pieces (the pot metal one - the cast iron ones seem fine), and I fractured two a/t cooler lines right at the block brackets. My mirror does the big buzz at cruise, too. I figure there's more the vibration is cracking, too, but I just haven't found it yet. Did I mention that the a/t to t-case adapter broke, too....

The 2.6 with shafts is as smooth as a v6, almost as smooth as an I6, except down real low in rpms where the power pulses are enough farther apart to notice.

Note the short chain driving the oil pump. I like to oval out the more middlish bolt hole in the short chain guide so you can adjust the chain clearance a tad. I think the spec is .5 - 1mm between guide and chain, all the slack gathered at the guide.

While cleaning the timing chain cover I found that it has some damage. It looks like someone has ground off the end of one of the water pump bolt holes and there are cracks all over the thing. Is this normal or am I now looking for another cover?

The cracks are marks from the steel mold the part was made in. The mold had some heat cracks in it. Its normal and wont hurt anything.

The wear marks are from the timing chain being loose. As long as it did not break through to water your fine. If its just a bit of the bolt showing its unlikely to leak.

Make sure your new motor has a rubber washer behing the tensioner for the timing chain.

Kevin

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />My long block did not have any studs on the intake side. The guy at the parts house sold me some cartburetor studs, but they really don't seem to hold in the head. What is a good solution for studding this side of the head? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Heli-coil, just pick which size you want to use.

Are the threads in the head ok or is it that the studs are a the wrong size?

I just double nut the studs and screw them in till they bottom out on the shank.

Can you get your old studs out by double nutting them?

Kevin