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Re: The long block is in...question [Re: Kevin C] #708810 03/27/06 01:23 AM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 64
n2dp Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
It seems that I just didn't have the stud all of the way in. I have everything together now, but I am not getting any fire from the coil.


1988 Raider, 2.6L (Weber carb, PaceSetter header, Centerforce D/F clutch, 5-Speed M/T, 33X12.50 Pro Comp M/T, 15X8 US Wheel 97 Series)
3" Body Lift
Re: The long block is in...question [Re: Kevin C] #708811 03/27/06 01:27 AM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 13,649
fasteddy Offline
Web Wheeler
*****
Pick any 12mm head bolt on the motor - you know, the generic 12mm head Mitsu bolt. I think it's an 8mm x 1.25, but it may be x 1.5. That's the proper stud thread for the head hole and the nut for the stud. L1 (the length in the head that's threaded) you can measure with a toothpic probe and a mm ruler. L2 (the part that sticks out) is manifold flange thickness + gasket + lock washer (relaxed total thickness) + flat washer + nut + about 3mm. Or go to Summit and buy the ARP studs. You need the Mitsu locking single use exhaust side locknuts, too. See other posts on cutting the webs of the exhaust manifold. Check the rear exh. mani bolt hole for stripping...


Not responsible for advice not taken...
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