i was given a 86 pup 2.3 4x4 with a blown head gasket. it sat in his yard for about 3years like that. i replaced the gasket, cleaned out fuel tank, cleaned carb, and complete tuneup. the only thing i cant figure out is the fuel pump. its a mech. pump, and all the lines were missing. i tried to research but no complete answers. so i took a chance and guest at it. there are for branches comming from the pump but can only find 3 (inlet, outlet, and return) things to hook up. the one im puzzled over is on the very top of pump. it comes out horizontally then takes a 90deg. bend straight down.
i tried to start truck, no luck. i poured alittle gas down carb, but it spit it all back out at me. i dont know if because of this extra fuel line or if timming is off. im going to check timming this afternoon, and ill let you all know tonight.
i thank you for all the help.
donnie

http://foto.afn.kz/x/

I think you may be able to find the manual here.

thanks. i tried it couldnt find anything in english.

The extra connector on the fuel pump is a breather tube and would have only hung down from the pump about 8-10 inches. It is so the oil that leaks through when the inner seal on the pump fails will have somewhere to go. You should have two larger connectors, one is in, the other out, and one a bit smaller that goes to the return line from the tank. I'll go take a look at my spare and see if I can tell you which is which for sure.

Sounds like you might want to double check your valve timing. Spitting air/fuel back through the carb makes me lean towards that as a problem. Could be the spark timing though, and the disti isn't super easy to get in right the first time around. Check for spark, make sure you plug any open vac lines or ports.

thanks for the help. didnt get a chance to check timming this afternoon. but i really need to double check it. thanks for the info. on the pump.

that is the problem. i marked everything so that it would all line up on reassembly, but i forgot i had to turn crankshaft to unlock the pistons(alittle rust after a few years). i lined it back up to tdc(so i thought). instead its on the exhaust revolution. i need to make one more full turn for tdc.my question is do i need to do a total teardown again or can i just undo timming belt and rotate crankshaft one full turn? im thinking since the top half is belt driven all i would need to do is unhook the belt to keep it stationary will only the pistons move. am i right or wrong?

YES YOU CAN TURN THE ENG IN A CLOCKWISE ROTATION ONLY SO YOU DON,T JUMP THE BELT , BUT AS YOU TURN THE CRANK YOU NEED TO ROTATE THE CAMSHAFT ALITTLE AT A TIME ALLSO OR YOU MAY BEND A VLV, JUST TURN SLOW AND THEN THE CAM AND THEN THE CRANK UNTILL YOU ARE AT TDC ON THE CRANK AND THE CAM AND YOU SHOULD BE OK JERRY

I am a bit confused (easy to do these days) and the crank does not really care (know?) it is on the exhaust or intake stroke. As long as #1 (or#4) is topped out, it is fine. You rotate the cam to determine if #1 or #4 is on the compression stroke.

Michael

no its me that is confussed. ive just put too much thought into this. i need to make sure my rotor is pointing to #1 at tdc right?

Crank positioned to TDC for #1 and #4.
Cam positioned such that #4 is at TDC compression.
Rotor pointed to #4.

This should line up the mark on the tip of the dizzy shaft with the mark on the head, under the valve cover. You will also need to make sure that the cam and crank are positioned correctly with relation to the timing belt. A few turns of the crank should result in the marks on the cam sprocket to be pointed at the mark in the cover while the crank points to TDC on the cover (or the timing sprocket on the cam points to the mark on the back cover, but this will depend on how far torn apart the motor is right now).

Good Luck,
Michael