To turn it over so it all lines up right I'd probably pull the rocker arms loose so the valves will all be closed. If you try to turn the crank without the cam turning with it you risk hitting a valve into a piston. You can adjust the valve adjustments all the way loose, but the rockers will still be touching the valves on a couple of them, and leaving the valve just slightly open. I'm not sure it would be enough to clear the piston as it came around.

If you lined things up right, you could put the crank a quarter turn off (all pistons half way up/down the bore), turn the cam to line it up where it needs to be, then turn the crank the right way to match it. It takes some thought and planning though to make sure you turn everything the right way to avoid valves and pistons meeting.

YOU ARE CORRECT MICHAEL , THE CRANK DOESN,T KNOW OR CARE WHERE THE PISTONS ARE GOING , BUT I READ THIS AS THOUGH HE WAS WANTING TO REMOVE THE BLT AND THEN TURN THE CRANK OVER , IF THE VLVS DONT MOVE OUT OF THE WAY THEY, WELL YOU KNOW THE REST OF THE STORY. JERRY, ON SECOND THOUGHT I GUESS THE CRANK DOES KNOW WHERE THE PISTONS ARE GOING ,BUT IT JUST DOESN,T CARE ,IN CASE ANYONE WONDERS WHAT CAN HAPPEN, IJUST GOT IN A TURBO DSL THAT THE NO3 INTAKE VLVL LIFTER BROKE AND THE PAD OF THE LIFTER FELL UNDER THE CAM LOBE BRINGING IT TO AN ABRUBT STOP AND THE CRANK JUST KEPT ON GOING AND GOING AND GOING , 8 LITTLE ORINGS IN THE TOPS OF ALL THE PISTONS , 5 BROKEN ROCKER ARMS AND 4 BENT PUSH RODS,WHEN THE CAM STOPPED IT SPUN THE TEETH OFF THE TIMING BELT WHILE THE CRANK WAS SPINNING 3000 RPM,AND THESE VLVS SIT ABSOLUTE VERTICLE MAKES A REAL MESS .

Jerry-

I think we got it figured out in the end, but he said he wanted to remove the belt and rotate the crank once to bring it from TDC, exhaust, back to TDC, compression. He was a little mixed up on what he was asking. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

If it really was TDC, compression, he just needed to turn it all over, together, to get to compression. Valves are OK, I think.

My head hurts, I'm going to bed...

Michael

i got it all figured out. what it was iwas tring to ask or say was that the timming strocket needed turned 180deg so that the rotor would line up to #1tdc. i took advise and turned the crank to where none of the pistons were at tdc and then turned the sprocket and put the belt back on.
sorry for the confusion. now im all lined up and will put all back together tonight and time it this weekend. ive got my fingers crossed that it will start. ready to bring life into this truck.

ok, i think i goofed up. when i took off timming belt and sprocket, i did this all in #1 tdc. i aligned all the notches of the sprokets and belt to #1 tdc aswell. well i later read the manual again making everything is good to go while i charge up my battery. the manual says to line everything up at#4 tdc.
i thuoght everything was done in #1 tdc. did i goof? i havent tried to start yet, i need to get a battery old one wont charge. ive rotated the motor and everything is well. all valves open and shut when need to. roto points to all at combustion tdc. should it still be good or should i take it off and line it up at #4 tdc?

Hmmm...I read about that somewhere. Somewhere very close to this thread...:D

Yes, you have to change it. The dizzy is 180* out.

Good Luck,
Michael

thanks man. ill do that and let you know if its good to go.

okay i got it all torn down again. ive got timming belt off and #4 at tdc. the marks on the cam and crank shafts are both pointing north(they are lined up with there marks). took out #4 plug and made sure 4 was at tdc. turned the valves(by turning the sproket) made sure the intake valve just shut for the compression stroke and lined up its marks. the rotor is pointed at the #4 position.
does everything sound good so far? want to make sure before i put the timming belt back on and reassemble. so far from the book it seems to be okay, but i want to check with all of you.

There is a divot on the shaft of the dizzy and a tick on the dizzy housing. Line them up. Then line those up with the cast tab in the head, where the end of the dizzy is supported. Pretty much all the marks should be directly on top.

Then you are good to go.

Michael

do you know where the devit is in relation with the arrow on the sprocket wheel? i never took the dizzy(camshaft) out so the mounting brackets are covering the divot. id have to take apart valves and springs and take off the mounting brackets to view the shaft wouldnt i? ive never went that far in replacing the timming belt before. messing with valves really makes me nervous. would i also have to take the head off to work with the valves?
hey mlclark thanks for all the help. im really excited in getting this truck running. its my !st 4x4. ive got 3 boys that are of age to where they would enjoy some mud on the tires.