I'd try to find out what;s wrong. If you do decide to strip it, I could use some parts. Just PM me. I'm in knoxville about every week.

Oil pressure's good. I'll check the compression tonight. Thanks for the input. Mark, I'll let you know if I part it out. I've also got some swaybar bushings that I never got around to installing, a new rear seal, and flywheel bolts too. But I'll check back after I check the compression. Taro

TARO--- I'm in Knoxville and I have a work shop here, I could take it off your hands or help you with it, work on it, tow it, whatever. Just let me know. I just finished swapping out heads on my isuzu, so I'm fairly familiar with the engine. If needed I have a friend that is the District manager for AutoZone and can get salvaged-yet warrantied engine for a decent price. I was quoted 2300 for one with a 1 year, unlimited miles. Had 30k on it. So If you need it off your hands-help just let me know!!!!


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01 F250 Lariat 6spd
94 Ford Lightning
97 Rodeo

If the oil pressure is good I would think there is a good chance you can get it back on track for a reasonable amount of money. Even swapping something like rod bearings takes time but isn't much money. Don't get discouraged - at least not yet. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

You know, to be completely honest with you. If you really decide to get rid of it. I saw a 98 Trooper with 98k and a locked up motor go for over 2500 on ebay not long ago.

Vanduker, thanks for the encouragement and advice. Rodeofox thanks for the offer and I may very well ask for some help if you're available.

Question about checking compression: I pulled the fuse on the fuel pump and pulled the very front sparkplug on the driver's side. The sparkplug is burned pretty bad and there was a slight amount of oil along the coil wire. Every time I turn the engine, the compression goes up more each time. I thought I was supposed to keep going until the pressure tops out, but I've been letting it crank a few seconds each time and so I feel like it should have gotten enough rotations to get a good pressure reading. Should I keep cranking it until the pressure tops out or am I doing something wrong? Thanks, Taro

#1 You need a well charged battery.
#2 Pull all of the spark plugs.
#3 Open the throttle plate all the way (WOT).
#4 Pull FP fuse.
#5 Attach the gauge well. (Your gauge should "stick" and not loose pressure. It sounds like you might have a defective gauge or it is not well screwed into the spark plug hole.)
#6 Crank engine over with the key for an equal number of rotations (I usually go for the 8-10 range to ensure compression is well represented)
# 7 Do the same for each cylinder.

There are a few threads in Tech that you could read that are more comprehensive, but...the above is just the short story.

Good Luck,
Michael

Thanks Michael. I got a little confused with the throttle plate thinking that this referred to a carbureted engine, but does this mean to keep the throttle cable "retracted?" In the meantime, I'll search the tech section.

Well Taro i'm off on Wed-Thurs-Fri. I don't go into work until around 730-800 each night. So If you need some help just give me a holler- fox4wheels@earthlink.net 237-4403

Fox

Either crank it with the pedal to the floor (assuming no fly-by-wire throttle, which I think showed up in 98) or wedge open the throtle lever on the TB. Just don't forget to remove it when you put everything back together.

In the end, while absolute numbers are good to know, you are really more interested in how they compare between cylinders. Gauges vary in accruacy and I would rather see similar numbers, regardless of what the actual compression was. This means, do everything the same. But with all the plugs out, the starter spins the engine faster (less resistance) and with the throttle open, it makes sure each cylinder is full before it is compressed.

Michael