You will need at the least, a top end gasket set. This is everything from the head gasket up. It might be a good idea to also change the timing belt and maybe replace the water pump while you are at it. This means you will need anti-freeze too, plus whatever other expendiable supplies that are required. It would be a good idea to replace all the rubber coolant hoses and thrermostat at this time and maybe consider a new radiator. It is no use to replace the head and kill it becasue the cooling system failed.

As for the head, it is up to you. You can either have yours fixed or get a new one. It matters little that the other three are at 130, the low number seals your fate. For the time, effort and $$, you don't just do a one cylinder valve job. You can have someone do a valve job on your current head or you can get a new aftermarket casting for ~$500 and be done with it. The testing and work on your head (it is a no-go if it is cracked) will be pretty close to that ~$500 figure. A new one will come loaded with valves. You will have to swap in your cam and put it all back together.

Without seeing a picture of your plugs, it is hard to define fouled. They are not supposed to be bright white all the time. They should be grey-tan and still be fine. If they are covered with oil (which you would see in the blue cloud that is following you) then you have other issues.

As for the fuel smell, it could be something as small as a fuel leak or you are smelling the essentially unburnt fuel from #3 when it exits the exhaust.

So, yes, we are back to the begnining. It needs to be taken apart before you get a final answer. i.e. Your choices get limited if the head is cracked. But, with those compression numbers, it has to come apart to be fixed.

Michael