D*mn!!! Which is why I but crapsman tools! I have a habit of breaking them, and they replace 'em for free!!

You guys got the whole hi/low range thing backwards. Think about it: dropping it into a lower gear makes it easier for the engine to move the truck. The best possible setting would be 4th or 5th gear, hi range, 4wd. Hardest for the engine to turn the wheels/easiest for the wheels to keep the engine stationary.

4th gear and a 24 inch breaker bar were all we needed to get the crank bolt off my friend's 89 2WD with 278k.

Yep, higher gear is what you want. I use 4th gear, 4H, hubs locked, e-brake on, truck parked on my uphill facing driveway and blocks behind the rear wheels and in front of the front wheels. With the blocks at either end you are letting the truck's weight work for you as the tires try to climb the block, depending on which way you are turning the bolt. I normally use the starter to break mine free, works every time for me, expect the time the 6-point impact socket split on me.

Thanks for the input. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I was wondering about the gear settings, but by then I was so frustrated and exhausted that I called it a night. I will definitely change things up and try her again in the morning.

Oh and I have been using a 1/2 inch breaker bar, a six point 19mm socket and a hi-lift jack handle.

Thanks again for everything,

If any of you guys are ever in nashville, the first rounds on me. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Matt

i had that problem recently try using a little heat with a torch but be quick about it,that did it for me.make sur its a crafstman 19mm and a 1/2 breaker, no adapters.do the starter bump trick it takes a few times but dont give up.MAKE SURE TO UNPLUG THE DISTY.

That bolt is usually loc-tited in there. I tried for way too long to get my bolt out. I snapped 2-3/8" ratchets and bent another, broke 1-1/2" socket, and then upgraded to a 3/4" drive 4' long breaker bar and still could not budge it. Ended up taking it to a local shop and took him 15 mins with an impact hammer and torch to free it up...he was running around 200psi of air in the process.

Unfortunatly this is probably the case that you are in and may have to bring it somewhere to get it loosened up. The guy that did it for me charged me $5 for doing it...WELL WORTH IT!!!

i usually the starter trick works well. for stubborn bolts i have a 3/4" IR impact gun. that gets em loose in a hurry.

I just did it with a 1/2" breaker bar and a 6 point 19mm socket. What I did was to place a piece of plywood in front of my radiator then I wedged a block in between the plywood and the breaker bar to hold that socket on the bolt tight.
Breaker bar was on top of the driver side frame.
Bumped the starter and she broke loose.

I think the key is to use a 6 point socket, wedge it in there and have as little slack as possible ... so that when you hit the starter it has full direct contact with the bolt and can do it's trick.

I tried it earlier with a 3/8" breaker bar and it broke the axis pin of the breaker bar immediately.

Good luck with yours, hope ya get it without too much more grief.

Here is what a few of the guys over on PBB have done to get them out after trying a lot of different methods.

Here is the thread:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=427096&highlight=crank+bolt

Here is how one person got his out:

"I had one about a year ago that gave me all kinds of problems. Tried everything. Finally had to grind the washer off.

The washer thats built into the bolt is actually a spring washer and is what causes these to be such a pain in the ass, it's not the threads.

Once you get rid of the spring tension she will back right out with your fingers."

First cut



getting it out

Kind of a stupid question actually. If I'm doing the work myself & get the shop to loosen the crank bolt, how can I drive back home with the loosen crank bolt?