I followed the body line below the side windows. You can see the body line I used on this pic of Kevin's truck.

I used 1/8" steel plate welded across the tops of each side and the rear door. Both hinges are at the bottom half of the rear door, so there's nothing to do.
Where I cut it does make the elevation of my front doors a little bit higher than the tops of the "bedsides",

but I needed that space to attach a hard top to. I also thought it would look funny to have that body line so close to the break-over. I intend to make some nice rails that will bolt into the inserts for the hardtop that will make the front/rear elevations match. And/Or... I may pick up another pair of doors and make some half doors.

Those are some good pics <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> I cant beleive how good these chop tops are that you guys have done. i can only hope that people wont get cut on the edges of mine <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> do you happen to have any pics of the inside of the top "Bedrails"??

I don't have any right now. What I've posted so far are just some that I took for other reasons and happen to already have hosted. If I can get healthy enough to get back into the shop by Monday, I'll take a series of close-ups for you.

Well i am not in a rush i have yet to get another raider. Thanks for the help and get better!

Here's mine its cut a bit higher than his is and I've riveted on some bed cap toppers for the sides. for the rear door its the same I want to weld the door caps over as the catch a little bit. I took bondo to the holes at the windshield frame and door where the window frame was cut.

well i have the top cut <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> and the tube to put in my cage but i would really like to have any pics anyone might have of the interior and attachment point. i have already completed the side of the "bed rails" and i am down to the last step. i have no idea how to do the front of the cage where the front drive and passenger compartment is and would like some advise. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

thanks all!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

You better be taking pictures! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> I wanna see!

i will try to get some pics of the progress up tomorrow. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Before:
[img][image]http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/849/1000529largemedium5hk.jpg[/img][/image]

After:

[img][image]http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/7366/sideview8de.png[/img][/image]

Bedliner cut and heated for the caps:

[img][image]http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/6324/rails7vn.png[/img][/image]

And what do you guys think i should do with this??

[img][image]http://img105.imageshack.us/img105/9708/roof8fl.png[/img][/image]

So any word on the pics of a rollcage connection points? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Sorry for the delay, my first reply to this got nixed in the re-construction-

Anyway,
Across the top of the windsheild frame, I welded in a piece of 1/8" flat bar. I cut relief slots in it to allow it to bend along it's flat axis, and allow it to follow the curve. I then ground everything everything smooth. I also added a channel for a soft top across there, which adds an "element", and hides the imperfections.

As for roll bar attachment-
The A pillar bars- I have them bending down as close to the dash as possible. They stay really close to the doors as well. I went with slightly smaller steering wheel to allow more knuckle clearance. I also have to open the door to roll up/down the windows. I welded big 1/4" plates, like 4"x6" to the "foot" of each bar. They are drilled through the floor and backed up with 1/2" malleable washers. Be careful here- there is a body support crossmember right under there, as well as your body mount.
Here's a couple pics of what I did with the B hoop. People might make comments about how I'm not attached to the frame, but this isn't going anywhere! NO way, No how!


What you're seeing is a big ol' chunk of 5/16" x 4" x 2" angle iron cut and scribed to fit across the top of the step in the floor. The hoop of course, welded to it. The other pic is the backer on the bottom of the truck. There is a 1" wide channel under there. The backer is 1/4" flat bar with gr8 nuts welded to it. There are relief cuts to clear other hardware found under there. I have a total of six bolts holding that in.
I put the mount on the top of the step for a couple reasons.
1- that step is very strong. There are many layers of metal there, as well as bends, channels, etc. making it likely the strongest part of the body.
2- I'm a big guy 6'1" - 275lbs, so I like to be back from the dash, and don't like hitting my head. On the first go-round with my roll cage, I had it mounted at the bottom of the step with plates and mall washers like the others. The B hoop crossed right over my head with the seat moved back. It also made a tight squeeze at my left shoulder.
With the new setup the seat belt is kind of a funky fit, but not too bad.
The rear hoops are built very similiar to the front, with plates and mall washers.