I borrowed a friends...Blue Point EEDM503A, I don't think I'm going to get the results I need from it.

So if the tach doesn't move, it's safe to say the coils are bad? Or the ECM is bad?

Does the current flow from the ECM to the coils & then on to the cam/crank sensors...or does it hit the sensors before the coils?

Sorry so many questions...I'm lost & too poor to go to KIA

can you get any codes from the ecm? checked all of your fuses? wiggled all your electrical connections?

There is no interconnection between the parts you describe, other than all attatching to various internal parts of the ECU. Some of the parts send signals to the ECU, others have signals sent to them by the ECU.

It is NOT wired up anything like a normal points and coil system, so try not to think of it in that way. It uses different input signals, ie. mass airflow sensor, throttle position sensor,cam and/or crank position sensor, engine coolant temperature, plus others) to go to the input of the ECU that does its mathematical operations on all the data, and sends signals to the coils, injectors, idle air control (and a few other bits), according to a set program stores within the ECU. Obviously similar problems to a normal points and coil system can occur with an EFI system, but you cannot manually jumper "this" to "that" to fix anything, the computers generate an error code that you can get read from Autozone in 49 states (ex CA) for free that will disclose a lot of what is happening. Come back to us with those codes and we should be able to steer you in the right direction.

Main issues that occur are with the electrical connections along the inlet manifold. Unplug each of them (from the right, MAF, TPS, and IAC) and spray some WD40 (water dispersant spray) into the connectors and reconnect them, do this every 3-6 months and you shouldn't have too much hassle with them (and I've seriously drowned mine three times, over the hood, no issues so far).

The kia gets driven 2-3 times a week, about 8 miles each trip. All of the connectors were gone over late fall/early winter when I was having problems before (turned out to be the relays)...so maybe 2000 miles or less since the connections were cleaned & the relays replaced.

Currently this all came about w/ no warning...

Unless the kia gets towed to autozone, there will be no error readings...the engine is dead dead dead. It's getting no spark whatsoever. All of the other connections would have anything to do w/ the spark issue?

to bad you have obd2, otherwise you could just read them yourself. the tach not working concerns me- although i guess it runs off of the ignition coil. seems like my tach worked even when i had no spark. have you checked the fuses?

yes, checked all the fuses & switched the relays 1st, then disconnected the battery (did nothing) & checked the timing belt...all checked out good. Checked for spark next & found none, pulled the coils thinking I would replace them...but think I'll put them back in & change the ECU (I have a spare) & go from there with what Axe suggested... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

If you can't get an OBD II scanner on it, maybe this sort of setup will help...

link

LMAO! I think that's way outa' my budget...


I put the coils back in & changed the ECU last night & still nothing. Checked w/ the meter, the connectors going to both coils while cranking & they both registered between 11-12 (meter set on 20 DCV)...don't know if this means anything & the tach didn't move at all.

Assuming the cam sensor is (facing the front of the vehicle) on the rear upper right-hand side of the head held in w/ two 12mm bolts. Got the bolts out but can't get the unit out, it turns side to side but won't come out <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Might call the dealer today for some help w/ that, unless someone here has changed one before.

If the coils measured a steady 11 - 12 VDC and the tach didn't pulse then that is a good indicator that the ECM ignition circuit is shut down. Since you changed the ECM then that essentially leaves the cam or crank sensor. I don't think there's anything else that could prevent ignition.

Edit...are you sure the timing belt is intact or maybe jumped a cog?

Timing belt looks brand new w/ no signs of wear on the teeth.

It occurred to me this morning that I failed to disconnect the battery when I replaced the ecm...which I will do when I get home tonight. I was in a hurry before the sun went down & I had to get the grass mowed 1st due to a threat of rain today.

I'd hate to have knee-high grass & a broken-down vee-hickle in the yard <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

I'm replacing the cam sensor anyway...after that, I'll have to try to get codes pulled. I keep telling myself that it's still cheaper than a car payment.