I just replaced a head, and radiator, it will start but only runs for about 5 seconds. If I hold the key in the start pos. it will run, could this be an ignition switch gone bad or have I put something back together wrong?

Without regard to the recent work you have done on your toy, your problem sounds familiar, (search for "seahunter" posts). Are you hearing the fuel pump and the fuel system pressurizing when you turn the key to "on?" There are several "tricks" I have gleaned from the real professionals on this site. A great place to start is to download all of the Factory Service Manual .pdf's you can get. These FSM files are really specific and help greatly in the troubleshooting process.

In the diagnostic connector (under hood pass. side, little plastic box with lid, next to the fuses and relay box) there are two terminals that can be "shorted" with a bit of wire or a paperclip, much in the same way you would "check the error codes." The specific two terminals to jumper then force the fuel pump to pump continuously when the key is in the "on" position. Not good in a rollover/fire, but in your case you can quickly "see" whether or not it is a "fuel" issue... or something else. Also see if you are getting error codes, while you are in there...

Send me an email seahunter@bellsouth.net if you need those specific jumpers to run the bypass. Then please post your results so newbies like me can learn too..

Good luck,

seahunter

after a a head and tc and radiator, not starting right up, huh...there are a million maybes on this one...i don't think fuel pump would be my first line of inquiry.

first off, no matter how careful you were, go backover every thing and make sure everything is connected and snug, wires, hoses, fuel line mounts, spk plug wires all seated and in order, manifold bolts and nuts, rbber gromets on fuel injectors are in (easy to drop and not notice on your first one)...etc, etc. Just think back through the whole thing and go back and look/feel/retighten step by step for something not quite right.

second look at your notes, the label under your hood or the factory service manual and make sure all the vac hoses are connected to the right spots. this is more key than some people realize i think.

third... maybe the distrib is a tooth or two off? do a search of old posts on 'timing' for detailed procedure to reset the distrib to cylinder 1 with the eng at top dead center...basically crank & cam & tchain need to be at 0, and take the dist cap off and see where the rotor is pointing...is it right under the terminal that is at the top front of the cap? if not pullthe distrib rotate, one way or other and slide in agin until the rotor is sitting right under the terminal that goes to the first plug.

I hate to ask this, but to be sure, when you put the timing chain on, did you get the shiny link, the cam dimple and the crank dimple all aligned?

....just some thought out of the many possibilities, iff you can give any more detail i'll try to narrow down....

I appreciate your responses. The problem is not a fuel issue. When I turn the key to the start position the engine will run, if I hold it in the start position it will remain running. If I return it to the "run" position it dies within 2 to 3 seconds. I am going to look for a pinched wire on the intake side but I am grabbing at straws.

Check your ground-wire. I had a similar problem when my ground-wire corroded and the ignition would only ground through the starter when the key was in the "start" position.

Well, I guess you always overlook the simple things when you are almost out of money and the problem seems to be expensive. I got the codes from seahunter, and was set to check it out......... I had forgot to attach the connector on the air intake Mass Air Flow sensor, amazing what one connector can do (sarcasm implied) Thnaks again for the responses.