Alright. I have some questions. My D44 is broken. The rear bearings are trashed the ARB is broken and the R&P is on its last legs. I'm consitering upgrading to a 14bolt.

1) What is a good price for a 14 bolt and what should i be looking for (IE which cars had what?)

2) How much would you guys think is reasoable for the welding?

3) what are the consiquences of going full width 14 on the rear with a regular sized 44 in the front? I'm not rich enough to go full width both front and back yet with a 60.

4) any suggestions and help? ARGH!

trav

looks like i'm out on Moab...

First IÆm no expert on any of the axels listed. And for that matter IÆm no expert on any axel, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn once. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

The 14bolt and Dana 60 are great axels. There is tons of info in the Pirate4x4 links below. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

14 bolt Pro; they are pretty much indestructible. They are relatively cheap (when compared with a 60). And there is a pretty good following of aftermarket parts for them, and there is an ARB for them now.

14 bolt Con; the 14 bolt will give you less ground clearance than a Dana 60 or 44 because the pumpkin is so big. They are defiantly heaver than a 60 and quite a bit heaver than a 44. You need to covert a 14 bolt to disk brakes (some Dana 60Æs come with disk brakes).


http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/index.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/PR-ARB/articles/Yukon_14b_Gear_Review
http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/PR-ARB/articles/14b_ARB_install-review
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b%20disc%20brakes/index.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/PR-ARB/articles/Jethro-built_14b_Diff_Cover_Review
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

What happened Trav?

Hmmm... Aaron is a good resource to tap for axle info.

Travis.

Had you made this decision not a month ago, you would have been buying my '93, ARB'd, 5.13'd Dana 44. As it stands, I've still got the axle shafts from it...

Crap. Timing sucks.

Anyhoo - There is always the option of a wider Dana 44 front like mine to match a 14 or 60 rear. It'd be just as cheap as a regular old narrower 44, but you'd have to spring for the $$$ to set it up.

Further, I would highly suggest going the non-selectable route with your rear. On rigs like ours with longer wheelbases, it's a non-issue. I've never once regretted having the Detroit back there and I even think a Lockright would be fine for your - and my - type of gentler, finesse-istic driving style.

With that said, 14 bolts are cheap and available easily if you feel you want to that route - colorado4x4.org is now your best friend. You could even go the 10.5 Eaton route:
http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthread.php?t=64261

In fact, you now have an option for both axles:
http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthread.php?t=64072

That's a good deal, aside from the gearing. It'd give you a width like mine (that's my setup, actually, aside from the fact that I'm running an ARB up front...).

You could go the "let's narrow down a 14 or 60 rear" route, but I think it's going to be just as $$$ either way.

Honestly? How many times have you blown up the rear on your rig? Once? Running the trails you do, with the way you drive? I think you're careful enough to avoid this in the future, IMHO. Unless you really want to take the Rodeo up to the next level, of course, or are really leaning towards 37's and more skinny pedal in your future...

- mike

stupid stupid stupid..... i replaced the axle shaft the other day and discovered that the berings are trashed in there. then the guy pulled the carrier and found out the ARB is all jacked up and the r&p is glazing! the whole thing shifted inside the housing. i guess that the guy who did the work originaly jacked it all up. ARGH! now i'm looking at over 1000 bucks to fix it! any suggestions?

Mike has some good suggestions...

Aside from that, I really dont other than picking up another OEM Rodeo axle and dropping a lockrite in it...
Assuming you have 4.30 R&P, correct?

Central Foreign has some for $550. Certainly you could do some for better than that.

I agree with mike... unless you plan to go to 37s, or change your driving style, the 44 should be fine up to the 35s you are running.

Here's the deal with a 14-bolt, too: they come in 63" widths, which should get you close to your front (unless you narrowed yours...). I, however, don't know what years or models you'd be looking for.

Then, of course, there's the 60/14bff combo for $1400:
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/157446800.html

I'm still leaning towards a carrier replacement and lunchbox locker for you, though. I really don't see a need for selectables in a rear axle on a longer-wheelbase truck. When I had an ARB back there, I always just ended up leaving it on. Now I just point der Rodeowagen at things and hit the skinny pedal, letting the Detroit do all the thinking for me...

- mike

Exactly... even in the SWB Amigo, the lunchbox locker solution is viable. Just point n go @ a reasonable rate.

I think your best bang for the buck is going to be with a 538 geared, welded, Isuzu 12 bolt with some wheel spacers. That is what I would do in your situation. The 14 bolt just going to be a major project with little gain, convert to disc brakes, shorten, regear, shave etc.. Unless you are building a corn-row plowin farm crawler then I would not upgrade to one tons.

That's another good option, yo. You should be able to find those for cheap.

Trav - what ratio are you running?

- mike