Thanks Jerry!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />


So if I went with one of the later 2nd Gen æwide fenderÆ 12-bolts û after converting it to a leaf-spring configuration, and mounting it - I can use my existing 1996-97 æwide-trackÆ D-44Æs calipers & e-brake cablesà and maybe even swap over my (almost brand new) rotors too?



More questions:

What about the pinion/drive shaft flange û is the 12-boltÆs patterning the same as the Dana?

And either wayà
Would I have to shorten/lengthen my drive shaft û or does the 12-boltÆs flange sit at about the same depth, front-to-rear?


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isuzu has only used one drive flange pattern, so yes, that will work.

as to the length, i wouldn't count on it being exactly the same. it might work out close enough to run though.

...and on a side note, I'm somewhat confused why you would give up a D44 for a 12bolt. not a worthwhile trade if you ask me.


-Rob

Rob,

In a nutshellà
I couldnÆt set-up a Dana 44 R&P if my life depended on ità
On the other hand, I do possess the skills/tools/resources required to swap 3rd members.

Rather than go SAS any time soon û I would be perfectly content to live with IFS, 4.77s, and ARBs f&r û at least for another several years.


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why not just remove the axle itself and transport that to your gear installer? In all honesty, it wouldn't take me much longer to drop an axle from a leaf sprung vehicle as to remove a 3rd member. you'll obvisously have down time anyways without the 3rd member (unless you buy a spare, which is adding to the cost even more).

-Rob

Another option,if your going the grind everything off and reatach brackets etc.

FOrd 9", removable 3rd,lot's of gear locker selection,3 pinion bearings anywide easiely made(compared to other,axles) more clearance etc.

look for large bearing 31 spline and it can be built from there to just about any configuration that can easiely hold up to 40" tires or larger modified correctly.

Just my .02


Bansil

Thanks for all the information! You guys are a wealth of knoladge. Here is what i decided to do- I got the 44 reparied. Not cheep but worth while. (this means I WILL be in moab! YEA!!) I'm going to weigh the different options and figure out what is my best move and work on it during the summer. I'll buy the axles and start building them. Now now the question is this: what axles should I get?

14 bolt read with 60 front?
60's front and rear? (more r&p options here)
70 rear and 60 front?
should i look into Ford axles?

I just don't know enough about these axles to make a good decision yet-

i guess it comes down to streignth vs gears vs cost... any ideas?

a rear 60 will require a carrier change for 35 spline shafts, if you are looking for that kind of strength. gear options as low as 7.17.

14 bolt you can go to 5.13 if you can find them available and 5.38's are allegedly on the way too.

Ford 9" has very good all around aftermarket and can be built as tough as your wallet will allow.

Glad to hear you are driving forward but what is bringing about the sudden loss of confidence in your current setup, are you planning on upgrading to bigger tires soon? It sounds like you had a poorly installed r&p. Letting that get to your head with 1 tons on the brain might get expensive soon. What size tires do you eventually want to run?

well, that factored against what you're trying to accomplish. what size tires you plan to run, how agressive you plan to wheel, do you care about weight, etc...

-Rob

I suppose I can make a little bit of commentary about the 1 ton route.

One thing that I have noticed about my 14 bolt is that it is quite a bit more harsh than my 44 was. This is I am certain because of the detroit. It handles all sorts of funny. Its also wide and difficult for me to pass safety.

My guess is that as soon as you are ready to do one ton stuff. you probably also better be ready to trailer your vehicle.

Are you ready to trailer your vehicle?