Howdy again, all,

Anybody know what the max temp the c223 should be run at is? I have a mechanical temp gauge, and it's actually pretty darn responsive. When I lug my way up the hills, I can watch it climb up. Some of you may remember that I installed an electric fan in addition to the mechanical fan, but when I flip the switch for the electric, I can feel the loss of power as it sucks away from my hill-climbing ability. I always keep the rpm's down under 3200 (as per Jerry) but now I'm curious what redline for temp should be for the continued health of my c223.

Thanks all!

IF YOU KEEP THE TEMP AROUND 180 -- 200 DEGREES YOU WON,T HAVE A PROB, TEMP GOING TO 220- FOR A FEW MIN ATA TIME AS LONG AS IT COOLS DOWN WHEN THE LOAD IS TAKEN OFF YOU WILL BE OK JERRY

That's exactly what's happening. Running around everywhere but the hills, it's actually down under 180--more like 150, but when I climb up those hills at freeway speed, it climbs right up to 220. As soon as I top the hill, back down the temp goes. I'll be more careful on the hills now, as I've gone over 220 at least twice. Not on purpose, but now I'll make sure I don't.

Thanks Jerry!

if you have room you coculd go with a larger capacity rad and by all means keep the eng driven fan with maybe a pusher fan in frt , A LARGER RAD WON,T NESSESARILY MAKE IT RUN COOLER AT NORMAL RUNIING AS LONG AS YOU HAVE A THERMOSTATE , WHERE THE BIG RAD COMES IN TO PLAY IS WHEN YOU REALLY NEED IT ,IT CAN GET RID OF A LOT OF HEAT , THE TURBO MODELS OF THE SAME ENG ALL HAD 3 ROW RAD.. JERRY

Hi Jerry,

I did keep the original mechanical fan. The electric fan I installed is, indeed, a pusher fan controled manually with a switch.

As for room--I have tons of room in there. I could fit just about any radiator in there I think <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Question is, which ones are good replacements. I saw some of the radiator discussion over on isuzupup.com (including your posts), but I think that discussion centered around people who had to stick within the confines of the pup geometry. Do you happen to know of any other car/trucks that have at least similar geometery (necks on the proper side of the radiator, etc) that people have swapped in as replacements? I still have the original radiator that was in the jeep, but it was for a 4 cyl gas, and I don't think would do any better job. I'd like to find some v8 radiator that I could make work -- never have cooling probs again <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> I suspect this will just come down to prowling around the junkyards a bit.

Thanks!

Paul
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HEY PAULL SOME OF THE EARLY BIG CHRYSLER CARS WITH THE BIG ENGS HAD RAD WITH THE INLET AND OUTLET WHERE YOU NEED THEM BUT THE NECK SIZES WERE TO BIG WHICH WOULD BE EASY TO FIX, AND THEY WERE BIG RAD SOME WERE 4 ROW BUT MOST WERE WERE 26-28 IN WIDE AND AROUND 20=24 IN TALL THYE WOULD COOL EASILY YOUR ENG I WOULD JUST SCROUNG AROUND THE WRECKING YARDS UNTILL I FOUND ONE THAT YOU COULD MAKE WORK, AND HAVE IT CHECKED , MOST OF THE GM PROD RADS WILL BE CROSS FLOW AND THIN BUT IF YOU FIND ONE THAT IS IN GOOD SHAPE AND WILL COME CLOSE TO FITTING GRAB IT THE CROSS FLOW WILL COOL JUST AS GOOD AS A DOWN FLOW RAD ALL THING BEING EQUAL ,, ONE OTHER THING WOULD BE THE ALUM, RAD FROM JEGS AND YOU CNA GET THEM PRETTY BIG UNDER 200.00 FOR THE GM CARS WITH DUAL 1 IN ROWS THAT ARE CROSS FLOW , THAT SHOULD EASILY KEEP IT COOL JERRY