that thing has a body lift and cranked t-bar like someone else said. just look at the front cross member in relation to the body.
Engine would weight it down some too.

Again, *no body lift*. There is at most 3/4" between the frame and body where the mounts are, prob more like 1/2", just enough space for the little stock 1/4" bushings that are on either side of the junction.

Aparently the secret is that these are an upgraded torsion bar - don't have calipers but they seem to measure about 26 mm, aparently stock (and what I measure on my running truck) is <23mm. The added diameter allows for more torque on the arm.
So I guess I'll be taking the whole torsion bar and everything attached to it.

I agree that the engine will weight it down some - but again, it's currently jacked by the knuckle, so it should be fairly compressed, as more weight is on that right now than the other 3 wheels.

Well, I wouldn't exactly call it an "upgrade" to mount 26mm torsion bars. You can crank stock bars just the same as larger bars. The larger bars are not stronger and they don't provide any additional lift bythemselves. All they do is make the ride the stiffer. It's like adding more springs to a leaf spring pack.

If you have an excessive amount of weight up front, like say a 15000lb winch, solid steel bumper and about 3 batteries, then it might justified to have 26mm bars. Or maybe if you transplanted a Cummings diesel. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

At most, I wouldn't go more than about 25mm bars, which sway-a-away at least used to make, but for most, stock bars should work just fine. In other words, if that's a parts truck, those torsion bars are not parts I'd swap over to your real rig.

Hm, thanks for the input.. .sicne that's exactly what I was gonna do.
I thought the idea w/ the larger bars was to allow *less* stiffness w/ an equal amount of torque, so you still get a soft ride if you crank 'em a bit. Guess that's incorrect.
Any other thoughts on this?

I dropped my truck off this morning for OME torsion bars and spring packs to replace my old ones.
After 200K they just sag even if you crank them. Guess the V6 and ARB bumper just wore them out. The rears actually sit ok but they rest on the overload and sag bad with a trailer.
Let you know in a day or two how they feel.

So how does it feel?

So far it feels great.Crossed the RR tracks by my work a couple times, I used to slow down to 10mph now they just get sucked up and the truck stays level. Hit them at 30 with a cup of coffee in my lap. NEVER would have tried that before.
A bit stiffer than I expected in the rear but almost no body roll and they tell me the rear leafs will soften up with use.

We ran out of time on the torsion bars so they will go in next week.We did get the leaf packs ,shackles and bushings in the rear.The front and rear nitros are in as well. The OME nitro shocks are quite a bit firmer than the regular ones.
The regulars were great with stock suspension but I'm looking for something to take a lot of weight and high speed pot hole runs.
I'll post up some before and after pics tommorow. Looks like we gained about 3" in the rear. No lift up front till the T-bars go in, kind of like the raked look though. Might just keep the new one close to stock height.

plus you have quite a bit more tire under ol red there than blackie

Parts truck?? that thing looks to be in nicer shape than my truck-truck. dam nit.