I have an 84 22r that since I had the different engine in it has idled really high (right around 2k rpm) and I have not been able to get it adjusted down at all w/o the motor dying. I have sprayed carb cleaner around the bottom to check for vac leaks and nothing was noticable, as well as around the intake manifold on the block side. I have sprayed plenty of carb cleaner down it, the fuel shut off solinoid works just fine, and the fuel filter has been replaced. If i adjust the low idle speed any lower than around 1700 it wont stay running for even a minute and it runs really crappy while it is running. When it is dying or even running at the lower RPM's it sounds like it is misfiring.

Any ideas what this could be? Would getting it rebuilt fix the problem? I tried most of the stuff I found in other threads to fix this to no avail <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Thanks!

~Eric

Have you or someone else messed with the idle mixture screw? If the cap is still over the screw then that shouldn't be your problem. If the cap is gone, its been messed with and prob needs to be reset. Idle mixture screw is right in the middle of the side of the carb. Its either above or below the little half moon hole.. if it has a cap it will be a full moon, if no cap there will be a screw instead. If you don't know what I'm talking about which I dont <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />, I'll find a pic for you.

see here



Good luck,

Scerb

Yup, that cap was off and I have already reset it to the "4 turns out" as stated in that autozone link.

Also, when I get to stop lights and I have the idle set a little lower than it completely likes to run at, the truck will die or want to die when the brakes are pressed. Any good ways to test this? I tried the Starting fluid method but its hard to tell as the motor is already really loud due to spinning so fast. Any other ways to track down a possible leak? Would it be a good guess to suspect the vac line going to the brake booster?

Thanx!

If the idle mix is intact LEAVE IT--it's bad Aisin juju, right up there with diddling a MAF on the EFI.

The aux air pump is another poor idle culprit if everything else is working okay and hooked up correctly.

Where is this pump and what does it look like? Any way to bypass it to check to see if that's the problem?

If the fuel cut solenoid is working, and your mixture screw is set right, then it could very well be a vacum leak. Could also unscrew the mixture screw all the way, spray out that jet with carb cleaner/straw, then re-set the screw.

As you seem to know, the stalling when you hit the brakes would mean lack of vacum, which would sugest a vacum leak. The only method I really know of to find vac leaks is to spray starting fluid and wait for the engine to surge.


Or, if you're really desperate you could plug everything, and theoretically it should idle (if the vac leak is in fact your problem). Then just replace the plugs with vac lines 1 at a time till you find the problem one. Idk, mebe someone has an easier idea? I'd try the starting fluid again before you try this.

Another thing that has worked for buggy carbs for me in the past, is to take the top off the carb (gotta undo 2 linkiges for the choke plates, and 5 top plate screws). Spray a buncha carb cleaner in the bowl so its about 50/50 gas/cleaner. Also use the little straw and spray each jet individually that you can get at with cleaner. Let it sit for about 15minutes, then start it up.

If non of the above works, I'd say its time for a rebuild to clean it out real good.

-Scerb

The AAP is on the drivers side of the carb, lower front most corner. Has 3 screws and 1 vac line going to it. Pull the vac line off and see if there is gas in the line, if there is gas the diaphram is punctured and needs to be replaced.

-Scerb

EDIT: Normally this only affects things when cold though, IIRC.

No gas in that line.

On the bright side im getting good excersice running out there to check each of these things <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Thanx for all the help so far!!!

If I understand your post correctly, you have put a 22R in a '84. I don't know much about the '84, but up until '83 the trucks seemed to have the same vacuum line manifolds and similar connections.

What year did the 22R go to the 22RE? I don't recall or recommend the RE. My comments relate to the 22R.

The Emission Control Module (ECM) part numbers changed a few times per year depending on the then current EPA regs. I suspect you will need to find a working ECM that matches your engine and carb, regardless of the year of your truck.

The ports on the carb also changed in those years. Thus, buying a rebuilt carb may or may not solve a problem if you don't know how all the vacuum control features were originally set up so you can securely plug the ports you don't need.

There are at least 2 vacuum switches that Toyota does not have for the '82 22R anymore that can cause the problem you described. It is all in the emission control system.

Lastly, the ECM I needed for my '82 is no longer available from Toyota. It listed for $384 when I was troubleshooting a few years ago. A year later, they weren't available anymore. I got lucky on EBay and Google and found 3 at $0 to $55 for an exact part number match. All three work so now I have 2 back ups. BTW, I plugged one in and the truck has been running problem free with no carb, timing or anyother adjustment!!!!!

Sorry for the long story. Let me know if I can help on more specifics.