Just moved over here from Off-Road, posted this there too, glad to see so many of the folks that helped me out over there are also over here. Getting ready to replace my timing chain, (85 22r) first time for me, (130,000 miles since it was done)and I have a bunch of questions. I am going to try and do it without removing head or oilpan, but may drop the pan if I find debris. Ok, last time I had it done, they installed a sleeve cause the shaft was grooved. Should i install a new sleeve? (Yes its leaking again) How hard is it to get the old one off? I have also seen mention in my searches to use the older seal (pre 85) cause it rides in a different place on the shaft or a newer seal (Toyota 90311-45014 front crank seal as used on 1994 22R/RE pickups) because it is thinner and rides in a different place. Anyone tried either of these tricks? Should I install a new tensioner as well while I am in there? Planning on a new water and oil pump too. Anything else I should replace (maybe the distributor O ring?) If I drop the pan, is it gasketed, or do I use some kind of Permatex? Thanks for any and all tips, i have found a bunch of sites with helpful hints, plan on doing this as soon as i get my garage cleaned out enough to get the truck inside.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

RE: the oilpan.

You have 2 choices.

1. Drop the pan, clean it out, and be done with it.

-or-

2. Don't drop it now, but remove it from the block when you toast the bearings due to oil starvation. You *could* always clean it out then. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" />

Welcome. There are lots of knowledgeable people here who don't mind helping out (I should know)

oil pan is a real PITA to get out. It is sealed with silicone from the factory. I got a tube of FIPG (toyota's black silicone) from the dealer for less than $15. Guy there told me that you can buy cork gaskets for the oil pan, but they suck and leak. Everyone here will say that not dropping the pan is not an option.

I was able to get it out by dropping the steering stabilizer and the differential. No need to unhook anything from the diff.

You can get Engnbldr's kit, with an oil pump and steel rails for a good price. Comes with a tensioner and *all* the gaskets. You can get a water pump local. Take lots of pictures (esp. if you are like me and didn't remember how the accessory brackets, etc. went back in - got stumped on that for a while).

Agreed, it may be a P.I.T.A., but if you don't drop the pan and pull the debrii out, you'll be dropping much more in the future. I just finished mine two weeks ago, and found these in mine....



Still thinking about not dropping it?

4crawler has an excellent write-up, I used it and the only problem I had was that it didn't mention anything about the smog pump, although it was obvious what to do with it. I would highly recommend using it.

Read and take notes first...welcome to the board; there's a lot of t4x4 refugees who migrated to here; lots of talent!

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...p;amp;sb=5&o=365&fpart=1

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/

I believe Roger still has his writeup for doing the job without pulling the head; www.4Crawler.com

If you're determined not to half-arse this job, you WILL drop the oil pan and clean 'er out.

Take your time and get it all clean.

One of the VERY FIRST things i would do is attempt to get the crank shaft pulley bolt out! It was a complete pain in the arse for me and I ended up taking it to a shop just to get that bolt out. They are usually loc-tited in place. Took the shop 10 solid mins to get it out with a torch and impact wrench!

Also, if you are looking for a timing chain kit for your truck I have one Im tryign to sell for $20 shipped.

Good luck, its really not that hard, just will take some time.

~Eric

I have yet to pull a crank bolt that's been loctited, to include my original engine in Ol' Blue...flybolts, yes, they're supposed to be...

Friend of mine last month about busted his gut getting one off an engine he rebuilt; didn't use a torque wrench the first time. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />

Mine for some reason was... I was pulling on it with all my might using a 4' long 3/4" drive breaker bar when i started to see the 3/4 to 1/2 drive adapter starting to twist. Maybe mine was a fluke, but dang, that sucker was on there good <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Gee, I just stuck my air impact 1/2 Ingersol Rand heavy-duty-rooty-tooty-get-down-on-it wrench on that thar bolt and it spun in right on out! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" />
Gnarls. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

How about bracing the breaker bar and bumping the starter? Came right off.