Hi!
I am trying to get the EGR nut off to remove the EGR pipe on the exhaust manifold of a 1990 4ZE1 (need to replace head gasket). No luck so far. I applied lots of Liquid Wrench and lots of pressure, but that nut won't budge...the nut is not in good shape either, with some of the edges starting to round off. My latest attempt involved a pipe wrench, which further destroyed the nut.

I am contemplating just cleanly cutting the EGR pipe for the removal, and then using JB weld or exhaust tape/sealant to reattach after the head is replaced. Has anyone ever done this?? Do you see any reason why it would not work OK?? One option would be to replace the pipe (if I can find one), but I figured using JB weld or an exhaust repair kit should be OK...just wanted to get others input first in case I am off base here? Any thoughts/tips/advice would be much appreciated!! I need to resolve this one way or another so I can continue with my head replacement!! Thanks!

First get a can of PB Blaster at the store it is the best stuff on earth for this sort of thing. Next you need a small propane torch like a plumber uses, a kind that has a push button start is convenient. Sounds like you went to far without those two importnat tools but atleast you will have them next time. You heat, spray and repeat and since I started doing that I have nto had a problem even with New England rusted fasteners. The next thing is 6 point sockets. If you use 6 point you cant round the fastener. 12 point sockets are convenient but as you can see lead you into some trouble.

JB weld and related products are not designed for heat over 500F so I would not advise using any type of chemical sealant. They really aren't designed to hold to things together without a lot of surface area and I'm assuming this is on one of those one holed flange things.

Last you need to say what engine you have so people who are familiar with that setup can comment.

Its not a GM engine cuz theres no pipe. maybe a 3.2 or 3.5? Is the fastener stuck in teh manifold with easy access? Google search "easy out". Or worst case scenario replace the manifold. If this is a 2.6 that is in the head right? Not familiar with that engine to comment.

1990 4ZE1

Jeeze Chris, you been sniffin' too much cinderblock dust? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

6-pt sockets are not going to work very well on the nut for the EGR tube. The tube is kind of in the way. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Heat, PB blast, (motor oil works relatively well sometimes) and repeat. Just get it off. Cut it if you have to and remove it on the bench.

Then, call St. Charles (www.stcharlesauto.com) and get a new one (~$35).

Use lots of anti-seize when you reassemble and call it good.

Michael

Thanks for the info Chris! The engine is a 4ZE1 from a 1990 trooper, which I mentioned in my original post (it is a 2.6L )Unfortunately sockets are not an option here, since the EGR pipe I am working on extends out of the manifold and through a very tight space on the other side of the engine....so the only kind of wrench you can get over the nut is an open end wrench! I have a propane torch, so I will give your technique a shot. I will stay clear of the JB Weld too...I went by Advance today and they have several products by Permatex that look like they might work for sealing the pipe back up. Thanks for the info! Anyone else have advice??

Hah! Michael beat me too it! I was typing my response when you posted. Any thoughts Michael on just cutting the EGR pipe a few inches past the nut and re-sealing later with Permatex exhaust putty or something similar? I am sure a full replacement would be preferable, but at the moment any option that would allow me to avoid fighting the darn EGR nut seems worth invesitgating <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Do you think the putty would be an acceptable fix in this situation? Thanks for the info and advice!!

Putty will not work, probably. Or it won't work for long. You can't really seal the cut end of two pipes together with puddy. There is lots of heat and plenty of vibration in that area.

Most likely you will destroy the nut, and the ability to seal the pipe to the manifold anyway, in the process of removing it.

Trust me, it is not worth the effort. If it has not come off with an open end wrench, then it is not going to go quietly into the night.

Just get it out of there and move on with the repair.

Michael

I cut mine. Sealed it with stainless steel tape and put a metal hose clamp over the joint.

It worked with the stock manifold for a year, still working with my Calmini header.

If you do wind up cutting the tube, you can try hammering a six-point socket on over the top of the nut -- it sounds like you'll need a hammer to make it fit, at this point. All of this will be much easier if you remove the exhaust component and work on it in a vice.

Randii

One thing you may want to look into is some tubing fittings. You could use a tubing fitting, a union. So long as you can get a clean cut this should work fine.

Otherwise just cut it and get your head out and take care of it when you have the head on the bench. St. Charles Isuzu should have one. P.M. "JLEMOND" if St Charles doesn't have one.

But the tubing union should work fine.



Joe

Thanks so much for the advice everyone! My dad and I spent some time today trying the propane torch and PB Blaster, but I still couldn't get it to loosen up...it seems like it is welded in place. Probably not unusual for an older vehicle with high mileage though. The surprising thing was how easy the manifold side nut came off...no problems there.

I am glad to see there are some options besides a full replacement. Looks like the next step will be to just make a clean cut on the pipe and continue with the head job. If anyone else out there has advice I would love to hear it!