CO4Runner - That makes me feel a little better. I haven't kept track of my hours, but it has definitely taken a long time.

Thanks smartguy!

Honest opinions are welcome. I know this design isn't for everyone.

Hum, that's actually one thing i can't quite get over with.

It's how most bumpers (that cover the entire front section up to hood - like yours) can only be welded/attached to the height level of the front crossmember.

Wouldn't a big hit simply bent the joints above the attachment to the front crossmember & pivot the remaining of the bumper (whatever is above the pivot point) into the front body, resulting in strong bumper crunshing into the body & radiator?

Yes, the mounting points are an issue. I have a plan for additional support, but I wont be putting it in until the bumper is on the truck. I am going to go through the core support and down to the frame somehow.

*EDIT* Also don't forget that this will be attached to fender bars and an exo cage eventually. Those should definitely keep it from bending back.

That bugged me too when I did my bumper. Unfortunately, there is no way out of it on the yota's....the front cross member just hangs low.....so you're always gonna end up in with that rotation problem. The flip side to that issue is that a truck frame really isn't all THAT strong to begin with. And a "good hit" to a really ridged bumper will bend the frame.

I think I mentioned the story early of my buddy's S-10 with a big *ss box steel bumper on it. He got hit head on at like 20 mph. His bumper wrecked the other car, visually the bumper looked completely un-damaged, but his frame was bent. The accident wracked his frame.

Knowing that, I built my bumper to be pretty ridged, but I intentionally put bends in the tubes that support the main part of the bumper, so it would bend at those points if I got hit good. I can lift my truck up with a high lift in the front (not on the sides near or past the headlights though). But I'm hoping that if I do hit anything hard upfront the bumper bends and rotates into the radiator, like you mentioned. I'd much rather replace sheet metal and radiators than a frame.

The only real downside I can see is that you really shouldn't mount a winch to the bumper. That should go directly off the frame at the same level as the cross member. Which puts a winch kind of low on the yota's (at least in my opinion).

At any rate....ANY bumper is an upgrade from the stock 1/16" stamped steel things. Those aren't protecting anything. Even the mounts on mine were 1/16" stamped steel. I could bend the thing with my hands.

Looks really good man. I'm glad someone finally stepped out of the box. I think the top tube height is good from my point of view.
As far as it being top heavy, yeah it looks like it is now but once you tie in a exo that will not be an issue.

Like CoRunner said Don't build your mounting points too strong or you will be replacing a frame. When I t-boned that dude a while back. Had the Smitty-buit bumper brackets not collapsed My frame would be toast. It didn't even scratch the powder coat on the bumper but the brackets were almost paralell to the bumper.
It is kinda a median between strong enough and too strong.

Real quick pic, I am on my way out the door.

thats freekin butiful <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

Yeah......definitely pretty sweet

Thanks guys! Here are some more...

UPDATE

Yesterday I made a plate for the front of the crossmember out of 2-1/2" flat bar (3/16). I drilled two holes where the stock bumper bolts used to go and bolted it into place. Then I tacked the main bumper onto that plate. This made it removeable (temporarily) so I could do some more welding and paint.



Here it is welded on. I used some degreaser and sprayed everything down with a hose.



Yesterday I ground a lot of the welds smooth. It took quite a bit of time. I think it was worth it. Most of my welds looked okay, but I being new to tube welding, there were a lot of starts & stops.



I hung it from the rafters and primered/painted. This took a really long time, a can of primer, and two cans of paint. I did my best to be systematic, painting all the way around short sections of tube to make sure I didn't miss anything. The finish is Rustoleum Hammer Silver.



After spraying the core support black and stripping the front crossmember, I bolted the bumper up and adjusted the position. Then I welded the plate to the crossmember on all sides near the tubes. Between the tubes, I spaced out some two inch long welds to finish attaching the plate to the crossmember.



(below) Yes the hood clears, although I have to use one hand under and one hand over to pass the hood up to myself when openning. It's a minor hassle I can live with. You can see where the radiator is with respect to the bumper upper hoop: they are pretty much level with eachother.



Another picture from further away.



(below) Here you can see where experience would have helped. If I had it to do over I would have moved the corner bend apexes inward so the tube would hug closer to the marker light areas. There is some ugly space in there that makes the bumper look a too big/wide.



Here is a shot from behind. Yup - too much gap.



(below) A view of the bar from above. Where the hood buldges in the center you can't see it from the driver's seat. But on the two ends you can see it.



(below) More pictures because bandwidth is cheap. Still have to paint the crossmember/plate black - the silver is drying.

[img]http://thebandit.xtremefabricator.com/frontbumper/frontbumper56.jpg[/img]

[img]http://thebandit.xtremefabricator.com/frontbumper/frontbumper57.jpg[/img]

That's where I'm going to "finish" for now. I'm moving for the summer, but when school starts in the fall I will start adding support tube. I know it really needs it.

to plug up the ends of the tubing, i remember reading from somewhere that u can go get some 25cents bouncy ball from toy stores or the gum machine to plug it up temporaly.