After MANY attempts to stop the leaking, I think I finally paid enough dues to get it right - changed to low-temp A/C silver solder due to the high heat driving impurities into one joint - and changed another plumbing arrangement to use fewer joints.

The first adjustment was to set base fuel pressure to 36psi:

The second adjustment was to set boost onset pressure (-0-inHg in the manifold) to a SWAG of ~50psi - probably on the rich side, but until I get some experience with it, I'd rather have it rich:

The third adjustment for rate of gain will be made after I have the nose drive brace welded - install it along with the blower belt..... for now the blower isn't engine driven..... so time to test drive it......

IT RUNS!

My initial impression is of reduced low-end torque... but it's probably because the blower is off-line.... incoming air is turning the blower in order to supply air to the engine, so until the belt is on the blower, a less-than-impressive acceleration is probably a given..... same thing happens on the highway on kick-down - sluggish, but does accelerate. Once a given speed is reached, it loafs along - even at 80mph. There's a very slight - but distinct - blower whine.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Next issue - a lockup transmission was sourced from a junkyard and rebuilt - untested until now..... started out fine, but quit after a few miles....... a check showed too much fluid...... drained the sump, refilled and tried again...... everything was fine for 25 miles until the temperature light came on....... looked at the fluid and it was high again...... and had been blowing transmission fluid from somewhere - don't know where yet..... could be just still overfilled, but I need to check it a lot closer. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Frank

Awesome. I cant wait to drive it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

What did you end up doing about the hood. If you posted it already, sorry.

I took the easy route - still need to bond the scoop and paint it:




Frank

Frank, the lines and coolers hold a lot of atf. Are you adding the whole manual capacity, or leaving it a quart or two short and sneaking up on it as the fluid heats up? Does the fluid appear aerated on the dipstick?. Is this the box you rebuilt?

Eddy - yes, it's the one I rebuilt. When I finished the rebuild and install, I put in fluid, but it's been so long I forgot how much. I had 3 bottles left from a Mitsu case of 10, I think - so I guess I put in 7 quarts. Anyway, when I did the initial startup (no driving) I didn't see any oil on the dipstick... so I added a quart and went for a drive.... worked fine for 2-3 miles abut then started shifting funny. By the time I got back to the driveway, it quit shifting and wouldn't move the truck at all - no forward or reverse..... checked the fluid and found it high..... drained the pan and added back 1 quart and it checked good... drove it about 10 miles and checked - all ok. Headed home and the A/T temp light came on about 1/2 mile from the house.... A/T oil under the truck... bubbles on the dipstick.

I'm hoping the initial extra quart caused the oil to blow out the vent.... and that adding back only one quart after draining wasn't enough and it now is low on oil. I'll try it again today.

Frank

This morning I drove it a few miles and checked the A/T fluid - low..... added 3/4 of a quart and it brought the level up to the full HOT mark..... drove it 40 miles to the machine shop - all fine..... drove it home and all was fine until 1 mile from home and saw smoke come out from under the truck when I stopped near home.... A/T temp light came on as I pulled into the garage and it had blown some oil again and had bubbles on the dipstick. Weird - maybe it still had too much fluid in it. The strange thing is how smooth it is - shifts fantastic! With the lockup version, 65mph is ~2600 rpms (just over the torque peak) and 75mph is at ~3,000 rpms - I'll take another look tomorrow.

While I was at the machine shop, we welded the nose drive brace, installed it and the belt. I still have some work to do, but the blower does make a difference. With the 3" pulley I only get 3 psi boost, but what a difference that 3 psi makes. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> Where the 32" tires used to cause a kickdown from overdrive and even then a slowdown uphill at highway speeds, I now can accelerate on moderate grades at highway speeds without downshifting from O/D. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> It only needs 1-2psi boost to hold speed on a moderate grade. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> As soon as I can work the numbers to find out what diameter pulley I need for 7 psi, I'll cut a new smaller pulley and see if I can get some more performance out of it.

I'll have to find different tensioner pulleys - the stock adjuster pulley wants to let the belt ride out toward the nose, causing the belt edge to ride up over the fan pulley edge..... lost one belt today and the second one started to get chewed. Either the stock tensioners have a taper toward the front... or mine is worn.... or my eyes are bad. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />



When I get the bugs out it should be more fun to drive on the highway - not a tire burner, but not a dog, either.

Frank

The initial debugging si always tough. I'm worried that the tranny is shifting so smoothly. Everyone I have done had a good bump on each shift. I'm worried you may not have enough line pressure and your getting some slipping.

See if you can get a pressure gauge on it.

Amazing what having just a little positive pressure on the intake does to smooth out hills

If three feels nice... Seven feels amazing.. Hmmm I wonder how 15 would feel <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Carefull on the tranny, figure it out before it burns a clutch pack up.

Kevin

I agree with Kevin - when I had my automagic rebuilt, its shift points were firm, esp with any throttle. Is your kickdown cable adjusted to spec? Dunno if that would affect overheating, but would certainly affect shifting.

Sounds like you're almost there Frank. We're hanging on every post buddy. And that engine looks stunning in that pic. Wow. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Nice work, love the custom fab.... 3" is a massive pulley, stock on the toyota's is a 2.37 and i believe that is 6 psi boost....

Kevin - my thoughts as well. There's a good tranny shop near me... I think I'll get them to check the pressures once I'm satisfied the serpentine belt will stay where it belongs.

Phil - good question.... When I first set the cable stop, I had it too tight and it wouldn't shift soon enough. I loosened it a little until I could get good shift points, but it may still be too tight. I'd think that slipping would certainly create heat.... interesting that both times it puked, I had been playing with the O/D switch. I'll check it - thanks.

Greg - 3" is the stock pulley that Magnacharger ships with a 62 series blower and is probably small for some engines - just depends on the crankshaft pulley diameter. I measure the Mitsu crankshaft pulley at ~5.75"... with a 3" pulley, I'm turning the blower 11,500 rpms at engine redline(6000)... the 62 blowers are rated slightly higher rpms than the others - 16,000 rpms..... so, I'll try a 2.5" pulley next. Supposedly, every .1" of pulley diameter reduction yields ~1 psi boost pressure increase.... that'll put the blower at 13,800 rpms at engine redline and I'll still have some headroom... 2.2" is probably the smallest I can use, but I don't want to jump to over 10 psi all at once.

Frank