Frank,

Once the over blown line came into my head I couldnt resist using it, Im like that with really bad puns.

I am curious to install a bypass valve on my turbo that keeps it out of the loop until the intake vacuum is below a certain level. It should keep the turbo spinning a bit faster and improve response.

The other reason is to keep the unit from dead heading when the throttle closes and reduce back pressure under part throttle cruise when the boost is not needed.

I have one from a DSM, Mitsubishi did not use one on the Starion motor and there is no easy spot to hook one up. I will take care of that once I get my shop a bit better set up and its not quite so cold out.

The real point is boost is addictive.

Good Stuff,

Kevin

Man, that's God's truth, too. I could never go back to a carby 2.6.


Frank,

I'm humbled. That's just a helluva good job. I can't wait to see it.

Ed

Yes, it should.... do that and you'll see what I mean about the difference in pedal modulation. I haven't looked at a lot of bypass valves for turbos, but here's one for blowers that might work for you - look at the remote mount unit:

Magnuson Products

Frank

The one thing i'm worried about is you are using a FMU that runs on boost.... if i was in your situation i would use a piggyback or even a standalone to tune it.. are you using anything to pull out timing? (this wont matter much until you get to 7psi) but i've heard lots of horror stories about FMU's...
But damn... i love the work you've put into your truck... i think this is the 5th time i've said it <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Thanks, Greg..... I don't know of a piggyback unit for the Gen1 3.0L.... do you? I may have to build a fuel/ignition controller, but I want to try the simpler FMU route first... might work, might not.... might blow the engine, might not.

The OE ECU controls spark advance.... advance drops to ~15 degrees BTDC under load. I don't yet know where it is under boost or where it should be for each psi of boost... somewhere I once saw a chart, but can't find it now.

I have a MUT-1 engine analyzer that I'll use when I start tuning it, but for these purposes, it's only good to read ignition timing. I'll probably need a co-pilot to monitor everything. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Frank

Too cool Frank. It's been a busy year for me and I haven't kept up on the thread. Now I can't wait to go through it! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Beautiful Frank! I can't wait to see that someday!

Did I hear the word co-pilot <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> They do most of the take offs and landings...I'll be right over <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

That is great Frank. Just let us know when you are coming down to GA and I will be there in line, Like the kids in the Porsche Cayenne commercial, with my helmet waiting for my turn. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
Congrats <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Bad transmission news...... put the gauges on it this morning at a good shop. There was no pressure rise on acceleration. The apparent cause was a sticking pressure regulator valve, which in turn didn't let enough fluid into the torque converter. The cause of all that was likely a warped valve body. So, we dropped the pan and found enough friction material to decide another rebuild was in order, along with another replacement torque converter. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />

The technician's guess was that the $100 junkyard transmission had already been overheated, had a warped valve body when I rebuilt it and because of that I never had a chance to get a good rebuild unless I was a very experienced transmission tech (which I ain't). He claims he would have caught it and corrected it... if not during assembly, then with the gauges on startup - also, he would have drilled the valve body to get the correct fluid flow, something I would not have known to do.

Oh... he said he doesn't like the Daaco rebuilt torque converters like I used - I think he said he prefers Sureco (Florida company).

Anyway, lesson learned <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />..... left it with him to try his hand at another rebuild since he thinks he can deal with whatever problems he might find, including the valve body issue.

It certainly appears to me that rebuilding a known A/T is preferable to buying a junker and trying to rehabilitate it - particularly if you haven't yet paid your transmission tech union dues. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Frank