Did he say how much a valve body costs?

No, and I didn't ask. I suppose he won't know for sure what happened until he tears it down.

Frank

Damn.

I know how hard you worked on that rebuild. Glad to hear you've got it with a good shop, though.

The fear of getting bitten by a complete unknown was my greatest fear during the turbo swap. I got pretty lucky.

Ed

http://www.perfectpower.com/products/smt7.asp


Oh, and when he's doing that valvebody, ask him if there any way he can increase the line pressure so there are firmer shifts and less chance of overheating (so there is less slippage). This seems to be a common problem in toyota's when you throw the factory blower on it.

Frank in case you are interested I know of two transmissions. Is there a certain year that you prefer?

Javy

Ed - If the problem turns out to be what he suspects, I think it's something I probably should have caught. It's been a while, but I think I remember that one valve was a little tricky to get into its bore - maybe I should have played with it some more before I buttoned it up. I consider it the price of learning.... I only tried the rebuild as a learning experience - I'd try it again if I had more time, but I'm more interested in the blower project right now, don't have time for both and want to get on with it. It's only about $350 + 80 hours of the learning curve - not so much to spend to learn that I have to do better next time. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Greg - I'd have to do a lot more reading on that piece, but it doesn't seem to be good for my purpose - it only controls "extra" injectors, not the entire engine. I have no experience with "extras", but my concern would be where to place them in my system so fuel supply/mixture would be the same in all cylinders.... the extra injector arrangement seems to me to be a good way to have some rich/some lean cylinders unless you inject the fuel before the blower. From what I've seen in advertisements, I'd probably choose a Haltech E6X unit if I went with an aftermarket ECU.... for now, I'm hoping that won't be necessary as long as I keep boost around 6-7psi.... at that level, I'm getting a theoretical 200-210HP with an effective C/R of 12.5-13.1.... and probably need to stop right there for this engine because I didn't build it for a lot of boost. Anyway, the power I'm already getting is plenty for this truck.

I don't think the blower has anything to do with the transmission issue - at least not this one - because the problem developed immediately on startup and before the blower belt was installed. He will drill the fluid passage if necessary to make sure fluid flow is sufficient.... he did say it's a common issue on Aisin valve bodies.

Javy - Thanks very much for the offer to help, but I already have the shop pulling the transmission apart and hope to have it back together by the middle of next week. I want a fresh unit behind the blower. If anyone else is interested, I can already vouch for the benefit of the lockup torque converter with larger tires. With the '89 non-lockup model and 32" tires, I was running below the torque peak at highway cruise, resulting in sluggish performance at times - although the converter did allow a little slip to get the engine up to speed (at some fuel cost). The '90/'91 lockup unit yields at least 200 rpms more at highway cruise - costs more fuel on level ground (maybe, maybe not), but becomes more efficient under load I'd think. It would be hard to calculate the true mileage difference due to differences in tire sizes, but for my tire size (and particularly with the blower) it seems ideal.... just cruises 65mph easily at 2600 rpms - solidly on the cam curve - and sits waiting for a stab of the go pedal. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I've used the down time to modify a spare idler/tensioner bracket to accept the new double bearing pulleys and I'll transfer these parts to the engine pulley bracket in hopes the improvement will stop the pulley wobble and be kinder to the serpentine belt. The tensioner pulley adjuster screw has a left hand thread, so not having a left hand tap, we couldn't just make a new pulley bolt screw head and bolt - instead, we cut the pulley bolt, welded on a new threaded length and ground it to shape - then cut a couple of adapter bushings and replaced the bolt on the idler pulley with a longer one:




Once I finalize the blower pulley diameter, I'll probably do something similar for the blower idler.

Frank

Are you going to be able to run 92 octane with that compression ratio?

Oooh haltech is a standalone... thats when you want huge power <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> this can control extra injectors AND over-sized ones, but if what you're using now is working ok, i'd stick with it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

MegaSquirt is a gooden too Frank. I'll build you one of you want.

If 12.4 is used for the maximum safe FCR, the short answer is "Yes" for 6 psi on premium gas.

The OE static C/R spec is 8.9:1... formula to find effective ratio is:

Final Compression Ratio (FCR) = (Boost / 14.7) + 1) x CR
Boost = Maximum Boost
14.7 = Psi. at Sea Level
CR = Engine Static Compression Ratio

So, [(6/14.7) + 1] x 8.9 = 12.5 FCR

web page

web page

Above 6psi may be a challenge, but the ECU ignition retard helps a little. It seems fine so far on my secret blend of 10% one year old regular and 90% Exxon 93 octane premium. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> The main problem will probably be hearing any spark knock above the engine noise under boost.

Frank