I'd be thrilled if they'll work. If they're identical to the 3000GT SOHC rails, they won't work... the injector bung angle and mounting tab angle/spacing is different due to a different lower intake design.

1) The truck lower intake rail mounts are level at the mounting point, the 3000GT rails are at a "V" angle.

2) The truck rails have the injector bungs offset to the engine C/L to allow the rails to clear the intake runners, the 3000GT rails set the bungs about even with the inside edge of the rail tube.

3) The mounting hole spacing on the truck rails is ~ 8.500", the 3000GT rail measures ~8.375".

I'll send my email address in the PM reply and keep my fingers crossed.

Thanks! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Frank

I'll check it all in the morning for ya Frank. All I really know is that the rails are quite different than the Stealth (which should be the same as the 3000 GT) setup. Details tomorrow evening.

Ed

The Diamante is the same setup as the 300 GT &Stealth. Darnitall... Water neck blocks the distributor location just the same.. Oh well....

Good luck...
Ed

No problem..... thanks for checking. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I've about figured it out... after ordering a gazillion bucks worth of fittings, hose, tubing, etc.

I've rarely seen anything so simple become so complicated. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Frank

Here's the final fuel rail arrangement - dual feeds at the rear of the rails with AN -6 hose and separate AN -6 outlets at the front. With dual inlet ports on the regulator, I'll probably make the crossover in the regulator rather than with a "tee" before it.... I think it should make for a better pressure vessel balance with less pulsing in the rails:

The major issue I ran into was routing the driver side fuel rail outlet to the other side of the engine where the regulator will be located. I finally had to admit that there was no good way to make it work without a 270* tubing loop - or I would have to cross over the top of the blower case - not something I wanted to do. The apparent solution is to use the '90 distributor, which has more clearance between the distributor bowl and the lower intake. Even more clearance can be gained by also using the '90 lower intake, but I think the '89 lower intake will work with the extra clearance provided by the '90 distributor. If an OE ECU is used it would require the '90 model, but since I plan to use MegaSquirt, I see no reason why I can't use the '90 distributor. This picture shows the close quarters around the rail outlet with the '90 lower intake and '90 distributor - it's much closer with the '89 intake:

There are other clearance issues - In order to gain room for the passenger side rail outlet fitting that goes into the regulator port, I need to remove this boss on the rear of the alternator:


Now I need to make some clamps to stabilize the hoses. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Frank

The fuel rail supply/return/regulator assembly is now complete.... if I can get Lee to sign off on the engineering <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />.... maybe if I promise to change (where possible) the remaining brass fittings to aluminum ones, he'll give me the checkoff approval.




Clearance is extremely tight, but there:

I don't care for a fuel fitting so close to an ignition source - or even having the regulator so close to the heat generated by a H.O. alternator, but after trying many combinations of fittings, this appears to be the best compromise without remote-mounting the regulator..... and I need the available remote space for another component. I guess I'll make sure nothing leaks and keep my fingers crossed.

Frank

Its so nice looking it is almost a shame to install it in a vehicle. Put it in a glass display case and ship it around the country as an exibit. Send the pics to mitsu as well.

Fuel rail, check. Miscellaneous fittings, no go. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" /> And what about those welds on the intake? Those have to be ground and polished! Get to it Frank! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Let's see if I remember how things are pushed through engineering......

Well, even though those aren't critical fittings since they don't carry fuel, I agree the appearance is important... so, OK - maybe we can compromise. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> I'll change the brass vacuum fittings except for the 1/16-1/8" NPT adapter fitting and short 1/8" elbow coming off the regulator - unless you can tell me where to find them in aluminum or stainless steel... then I'll be glad to change them - if they fit the available space YOU left for me to work with. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

The welds on the outside of the intake will NOT be ground and polished, since it's desirable to make certain the customer knows how much work went into construction - if we grind and polish it, he'll think we just bent it on a readily-available mandrel. You should have thought about that before specifying tubing..... AND FURTHERMORE, grinding those weld might compromise structural integrity and cause a liability claim which would surely come back on you and cost you your career. OTOH, if you want to make the change in YOUR departmental budget, I'll be glad to do the extra work.... and just in case you're thinking of pushing this further up the line, let me remind you that I have pictures of you at the last office party..... so we're in complete agreement, right? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Frank

First off, if I was engineering this project, I would have performed a 3D scan of the entire engine compartment and the engine without the supercharger, manifold, and drive system. I then would have meticulously modeled up every component, fitting, and hose to ensure they would fit properly without interference with other components. You see, you forgot I work on NASA and military contracts and am use to spending the engineering effort required to design a $1,000,000 toilet. Well actually I don't engineer $1,000,000 toilets, but I did spend $5000 on a toothpick once! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> (true story!)


You have me on this one. I forgot that if you grind the aluminum welds, it will smear the aluminum over any cracks and they won't be visible during the dye penetrant inspection. You did dye penetrant inspect those welds per ASTN E 1417, right? And you did use a AWS certified welder to create those joint, right? And you do have material certifications for the welding rod to ensure those joints meet the engineering specified on the engineering prints, right? Just want to make sure my bases are covered in case of a liability law suit. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

BTW, may not be the cheapest source for fittings, but I think McMaster Carr will accept small orders. Actually, I just priced a 316 SS elbow from McMaster and at $15 each, I think brass works very well! I forgot that the demand for stainless steel in China has really driven the price up. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Keep up the good work, Frank. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />