I was re-reading this post and ran across this:



How does the oil get back to the pan from the turbo? Needs to gravity drain, or you'll get a mosquito killer cloud of oil smoke from the leakage out of the cartridge. The only other suggestion I have is a dry sump scavenger pump.

I thought about this one when I was playing with the 3.0 turbo idea. I wonder what water splash shock cooling is going to do to the exhaust housing??? Mine glows bright enough to read by after a nitetime hot run...

Fasteddie... I have had the same water shock concerns, & yes a scavenging pump would draw return oil through an accummulator to defroth it. I just really like turbochargers.

Ed

Some parts showed up today - I thought about starting a new thread for MegaSquirt, but it's unlikely anyone would have the need for it unless forced induction is in the works.... so I'll post a few pics here now and then - without much written..... I'll probably be a raving lunatic anyway by the time I get this ECU all sorted and running right.

Here's the pile - all nicely packaged from DIYAutoTune - speedy delivery <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> A test stimulator kit, a relay board kit, an MS-II V3.0 kit, a 4 bar dual MAP sensor, a coolant sensor and an air temp sensor:


Frank

The finished MegaSquirt stimulator:


Frank

Blingin' BOING !!!
I would thing a seperate Megasquirt thread would be a benefit to us all.
Something that would definitely rank right up there for the archives.
With your attention to detail, the knowledge gleaned from the assembly & programming would help all who dare to delve into those waters.

Also, I kinda expected to see a nice weller temperature controlled soldering station... LOL

Ed

I wouldn't mind starting a MegaSquirt thread, but this is the first one I've built and I have a lot of learning to do - so I'm not sure I could provide much help until after I've finished.... if/when I get that far.

Going now to the garage to assemble the relay board.... should be able to post a pic later tonight.

Frank

The relay board is assembled, except for 2 power leads and a ground lead that will be soldered onto the board after the main harness is built. The 2 middle 10A fuses will be changed to 7.5A:



The board slides into a standard mount that's only a half-case and is exposed to the weather.... accepted MegaSquirt procedure says this is ok, but I just can't do it with electronics - so I've ordered a full case for weather protection and I'll make a change:


Frank

IMO Good Call. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I think you'll see that most MS units are going into street cars.

Did you get the Megasquirt, and spark? If not, how do you plan to work the timing? Boost retard, and such.

I watch with interest.

Frank, how come a 4bar MAP sensor? Don't you lose some resolution over a 2bar or 3bar? Unless you are planning on 45psi of boost. If so, I want to watch, from a distance. Not trying to be critical, just curious. I do think this is a much better alternative to trying to fool the ecu with a smart FPR. Do you have a boost control strategy? All I read says tune the off boost first, and sneak up on the boost fuel maps, erring on the rich side. Too lazy to review all this to see if the pos. disp. blower has a waste gate...

Curtis - The latest/greatest MS-II V3.0 boards have spark control built in. The MAP sensor provides the signal to the ECU that manifold pressure is "X" amount in excess of 1 Bar (measured in kpa) and the fuel and ignition timing lookup is calculated from the bin tables you write to the ECU.



Eddy - Resolution might degrade slightly, but the 4 bar sensor is the only one available that includes the second MAP sensor to correct baro pressure real-time. Since it's a direct replacement for the 2.5 bar standard sensor, no further "untested" modifications will have to be made..... it's on the board and in the software. I'll try it and see what happens... worst case is a swap back to the regular sensor that requires a shut-down and restart to reset the ECU calibration. I think the real-time correction might be very nice to have if the accuracy is acceptable - I'll want to ask about it before I get to the tuning stage, though.



I'm still stubborn enough to believe that I could get the FMU to work fine with the redesigned fuel rail and a larger fuel pump.... and maybe an MSD boost retard unit, but I don't want to find out I was wrong..... again. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />



That's right - at least for the fuel map. MegaSquirt now has some software called "MegaTune" that can get pretty close on the fuel map.

The tricky part will be the ignition curve. The only way I see to do it right is to use a steady state dyno... where you can set up at a fixed rpm and fixed load.... and tune the ignition for best power at safe EGT. A standard torque roller ain't gonna get the job done. I have no idea where to find the dyno that I need, so I expect to haul the truck to some race shop near Charlotte Motor Speedway - maybe the 3SI folks can help me - haven't asked them yet. In any event, I'll probably rent the dyno for the day - it'll likely take all day to dial it in.



No, the pulley diameter and rpms limit manifold pressure... right now, I'm pegged at 7 psi with a 2.6" dia. blower pulley. Actually, there is a waste-gate of sorts.... the bypass valve, but its purpose is to keep the blower off-line until manifold vacuum drops to a few in-Hg... lets the blower free-wheel until needed to save parasitic HP loss..... but once the blower hooks up, it's on line until you get off the stupid pedal.

Frank