That's good info, Kevin! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> That's about right for my engine - .003" on the deck and .004" as a result of 2 cuts on the heads.... not enough to put me where I measure these cams, though.

Today, I measured both sides, swapped cam sprockets side/side, changed to another set of sprockets and tried another crankshaft sprocket. I now have both sides the same at 118* ATDC C/L - should be 115* ATDC C/L. What I don't know is if the 3* can be attributed to the geometry change by using a collapsed lifter. I filled one with 30W oil, but it won't hold it without pump pressure against it.

So, I decided to get some adjustability...... thought about machining a slotted circular plate to bolt to the sprocket spokes with 2 sets of bolts - outer and inner circular patterns (outer slotted, inner fixed), then cut the spokes between the bolt patterns so the outer belt-drive ring could be rotated for adjustment. Instead, I'll try something a little simpler and cheaper. I took both cams and sprockets to a friend's machine shop this afternoon. He's going to remove the dowel pins and drill the sprockets to use the GM eccentric bushings that are available in various amounts of change. Since the GM dowel pin is a larger diameter, he'll also make 2 stepped dowel pins for the cams to fit the bushings.

I found a good use for the knock sensor bracket - it's a good place to set up the magnetic base:



The shim idea is a good one. I can probably get a single lifter from NAPA or another auto store for testing. What's the best way to shim it?

Frank