Justice -

I meant "diesel fuel" in the "fuel oil" reference.

The manual specifies the use of diesel fuel for cleaning and bleeding.

Frank

I would expect even the 5W-20 synthetic that the new engines call for is well in line for lifter purging. One dealer I used to sub to had the lifter checker, one dusty tool I do not think they knew what it was for. I guess that is why they brought me in each time their mechanics stumbled. Heck in the 80s Mitsubishi had the pin in stock for purging the lifters, the part # is no longer serviced now.

A special pin? Good grief..... I grabbed a small allen wrench, wiped it off and stuck it in the hole.... works fine.

I cleaned the inside of one of the Melling lifters with acetone, dried it and am gradually filling it with blue Loktite. Mabe that'll set up firm enough to use as a solid lifter. If so, I can then grind the tip until I get zero lash. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

There's always a way if you want to do something badly enough.... and I do want to dial the cams in on the money.

My lifters, when new, purged with 10W-30... they were noisy for a few minutes, but quickly quited down.

Frank

That is where they want the fuel oil, they are quite from the start.

It aprears you do not have a lathe there, for me I would just make a dummie lifter from a bit of bar stock.

Correct - no lathe. I'm working in my garage at home. There are many tools I wish I had that would save a lot of waiting time. I thought about cutting and grinding a bolt to make a dummy lifter, but this will be better... if it works.

Frank

With my luck the loctite would ooze out and bond the lifter into the rockerarm.

It does ooze out before it sets. I have it standing on the workbench and give it a little more now and then. It's about full, I think..... maybe it'll set overnight. If not, I might have to get the machine shop to make a dummy lifter.

Frank

I've always bled my hla's in a margarine tub of diesel. The diesel detergents help ungum the lifter. You just submerse and squeeze. I pump it if I can. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />

I use a small french hand sewing needle with the sharp end whizzed off. It fits the tiny hole on top of the rocker so you can purge air from the hla in place on the motor. On a dry motor start I leave the valve covers loose and sparkless crank it up to good oil pressure, and then use the needle to purge them again. Use a stock oil filter. Do all that, and they'll only tick a little bit...

Loctite and some JB Weld finally made the 2 lifters solid..... ground them a little short and used a feeler gauge to fill the exact zero lash. I found the lightweight checking springs useless... readings were suspicious. So, I changed to the stock valve springs and dialed in the cams..... took most of today to do it.

Factory spec is 115* C/L and I have both cams at 114.5* C/L. The driver side intake valve opens at 16* BTDC and closes at 66* ABDC - exactly as per FSM spec. The passenger side intake valve opens and shuts a little late.... about 8* BTDC/72* ABDC. I guess that rocker is not quite right. I'm tempted to leave it alone, for fear I'll start degreeing every intake and exhaust valve and end up with a full race engine. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Frank

I would move that cam.