Tried changing some of the enrichment values - pulse width, etc.... no start..... pulled the plugs - they're wet and sooty..... looks like weak ignition to me. These plugs are 2 heat ranges colder than OE and fouling is usually a sign of a plug that's too cold. Tomorrow, I'll install the OE plugs and see what happens..... probably better for initial tuning anyway:



Frank

Wideband setup.
Did you setup for this wideband in the Settings.ini file under Car1? It may still be set for a narrowband.

It is clear that it is getting fuel.

I don't remember if I did or not. I'll check it in a little while.

The TPS is showing 2.8% at closed throttle. I entered the range values shown in the Mitsu FSM as a quick guesstimate. I probably should measure exact resistance and enter those parameters instead. MS could be seeing the value and believes that the throttle is open..... altering fuel delivery.

Frank

MS measures the TPS for you, over on the right under tools.
Click on Calibrate TPS. Then click get current, open the throttle and do that again for full throttle. Done.

OK, I'll try that. [EDIT] Wait a minute - I did that, but I held the throttle against the stop when I calibrated it. Because of the "S" turn in the short coupled cable I now have, there is some confusion in the throttle cable. It doesn't want to return completely to the closed position. I need to have a long cable made that routes completely around the engine bay in a big circle before attachment to the throttle bellcrank. Meanwhile, I'll recalibrate the closed position without forcing it closed. [EDIT]

On the wideband, I had set the .ini file for Car1 to "generic wideband". In the program files I see 2 choices for LC-1 that seem appropriate, but I think it should agree with what you entered. Should I choose "0-5v 10-20 AFR or 0-5v 0.5-1.5 Lamda?

Frank

Yes the LC1 should be 0-5V. You do not want the generic setting.

If the throttle cable is in good shape it should take an S bend as long as the radius is not real tight, but this should be the high idle at start.
I would make sure the throttle closes completly before going to far.

What I meant was that in the .ini configuration files there are 2 choices for LC-1 0-5v..... AFR and Lamda. I guess I'll choose AFR readout.



It's fairly tight. I might be able to rig a throttle return spring as a temporary fix.

Frank

That is your choice as to which your mind comprehends the best. Most of us in the States are used to AFR.

IT'S ALIVE!!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I adjusted the throttle cable all the way out and have it so it either reads -0- or 1% every time it closes, pulled the IAC connector thinking I would take that out of the equation, then unselected IAC Stepper Control in the software..... left the throttle closed, pulled the brake booster hose for inlet air, reduced the fuel rail pressure to 30 psi at the regulator, changed to the old plugs and it fired right up.... ran at 2585 rpms, AFR was initially rich at around 13:1.... wideband evidently kicked in and brought it to 14.7:1, ignition timing read 29.8* of advance.

The issues:

1) Oil pressure is high - about 80 psi.
2) Once the engine was warm, smoke began coming from the engine bay - shut it off, engine temp ok, oil leaks underneath, so I assume it's dripping on the exhaust somewhere. The oil cooler is newly installed old cooler, but not restricted (checked it), hoses are new... a new thermostatic valve is installed (couldn't see where a washer/seal is used for that, so there's not one installed).
3) at least one oil leak at the pan flange - I'll re-tighten those screws.... not sure if that's the only leak.
4) tach display is frozen on-screen at 2585.... the one on the dash is working and agrees the number.

Does anyone know if there's a difference in the oil line banjo bolts? I may have mixed up the ones that are used on the adapter with the ones that are used on the cooler.... one pair is steel, the other pair is brass.

Question for Charlie:

I tried to adjust the ignition timing with the trigger wizard...... with 30* advance on the display, I set the timing light to 30* and couldn't see the -0- mark at the crank damper marks. I started dropping the adjustable number in the wizard, but as I approached 10, I started hearing some pinging. I took a quick look with the light and I could see the mark at the 10* advance area, so I quickly ran the number back to 60* and shut it down. How should I agree the numbers?

I'm now going to find a smaller orifice for inlet air to see if I can get nearer idle speed.

Frank

Found a vacuum cap missing on the throttle body, so it was getting more air than I thought. I plugged that and installed a 1/8" hose barb in the brake booster fitting on the intake duct. The idle is now down to ~2200.

The tach on the dash works fine, but the digital tach in MegaTune is still frozen at 2985.

I *think* the oil pressure issue is ok. This time oil pressure showed 40 psi at 2200 rpms.

I played with the timing light some more, trying to get an understanding of what to do. The big number in the trigger wizard showed ~26*, so I raised the small number from 60 to 78.5 where the dial on the timing light agreed the 26* when I had the balancer timing marks set at -0-. Should I now burn the 78.5 to the ECU and that number becomes my trigger offset?

Frank