Sounding good,
With the Exta codes you can lock the timing to +10 to allow you to setup the base timing. I do not see it in this code.
Make sure you have the Dizzy twisted to where you want it and set and burn the base time as you have done it.
80psi oil on a start is fine, many Mitsu engines go past 100 psi.
Congrats to you Frank, <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...&o=&fpart=1&vc=1


maybe helpful

Frank, congrats on your progress so far! I haven't seen this in a few days so it's good to know you're on top of it. Good luck with finishing that.. I'm out in missouri still.

B.

Gen One - Thanks! I should have looked in the parts manual. What concerned me was that the bolts are different colors/materials - or seem to be... haven't checked them with a magnet. That issue is resolved..... somewhere along the way, the oil got hot enough to open the thermostatic valve in the adapter and oil is now flowing through the engine oil cooler. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Charlie - Many, many thanks to you for helping me through this. Much of it is terribly confusing in the way the instructions are written. Sometimes the instructions seem vague and other times they seem straightforward. What confounds me is following directions to the letter, only to find out later that doesn't apply anymore - or it doesn't work in some applications.

I did reset the distributor to the center so I have a reference mark and changed the trigger offset to 70.5 to match the timing light at 26* spark lead at 2000 rpms..... burned it to the ECU.

Now I need to figure out why it won't idle. I've tried completely plugging the brake booster line and it still runs at 2000 rpms...... so, I guess it's getting air through the IAC - pintle must be pulled back letting air bypass the throttle blade.

Should I retry the IAC - or try to block airflow inside the valve? Have you seen the GM stepper unit yet?

Try reducing REQD_FUEL?

Frank

you cant use the factory "idle air relearn" proceedure because you have a new control computer?

That's right.......... I don't have factory anything anymore (other than the TPS) - at least not in the engine management system. It's all running on MegaSquirt 2, V3.0. I just need to figure out how to tune it.... but I can't do any real tuning until I gain control of the idle parameters.

Frank

Try the IAC, I expect it is open. Others on the MSX forum are just getting it to work also.
The GM IAC came in, it is about 2/3 the size of the Mistu one.
I might make a housing for it but at this time that might be to get rid of the wax unit.

Leave the REQD_FUEL as is. You now work in Tuning, VE table.
You can set it to follow the Bin you are working by pressing "G". You then add or subtract fuel with the "Q or W".
The LC1 should be pulling the mixture close as it runs. Soon you can setup the Auto tune to work the mixtures. Remember to Burn now and then and then Save As to a file name you can remember.

All the banjo bolts are the same. Not sure why you have brass ones???? Mine were all steel. There wasn't anything wrong with my old ones, I was just tired of screwing with it. So I replaced everything but the cooler.

Glad to hear it's running <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

It is.... it's still hard to start.... when it's cooled a bit, I have to work the throttle to keep it going as it starts... when the wideband heats up, it grabs it and keeps it going - although it does hunt some.... between ~ 14.0-15.5 AFR.

Are the coolant hoses that feed the Mitsu IAC only there to control the wax element? If so, it would be nice to get rid of the hoses.

One thing I see I like about this engine already.... manifold vacuum is 16 in/Hg at no-load 2200 rpms! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> I only had 18 in/Hg at 650 rpms on the last engine.

Larry - two of the bolts may not have been brass - it could have just been a wash coating on steel, but they sure looked like brass at a glance.

Frank

Both for the wax element as well as to heat the throttle plate for anti icing. They can be removed.

I am curious if the bolts are just fresh plating?