Mine were definitely steel. Just went and grabbed them out of the waste/spare parts box. Come to think of it, Frank, my bolts were questionable. I checked them with a thread guage and they appeared to be stretched ever so slghtly. I went with a new filter adapter, hoses, banjos, and gasket-orings at all joints. Also had to RTV the (what looked to be) aluminum washer for the bypass valve on the bottom. That, and cranking the snot out of it, was the only way I could get it to stop peeing. Hope that helps <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Could be. I need to check an oil leak in that area tomorrow (adapter, I think) so I'll put a magnet on them and see if they're steel.

I played with the warmup enrichment - changed it to 8.9 at -40* and about 3-4x that at 160*.... also changed a couple of other values and I can get it to idle a little lower - 1850 or so. It looks like it wants to go lean and the o2 brings it back. There's a little spitting/popping from the exhaust, but not too bad.

I tried plugging the IAC back in and turned on the stepper control.... still doesn't make much difference, so I need to figure out how to make the pintle extend via software. Any ideas?

Frank

That's what I'm really concerned about. There was no seal washer with the thermostatic valve and none is shown in the parts manual. The aluminum flat washer/seal that was with the original plug is much too large to seal the valve. I have a leak in that area and can't yet see if it's the valve or the adapter itself.... where it seals against the block - shouldn't be the adapter, since it has a gasket and I also smeared a little anerobic sealant on it when I installed it.

Frank

I seem to remember that the 2.6 oil t'stat housing used a crush washer and I think it's the same size.

Sounds like you had a hanger in the oil pressure relief valve that freed up. Must not have been hanging all the way closed, or you'd have had a worse mess. My 2.6 with a stuck relief would blow up stock mitsu oil filters (tested to 250psi +) on a cold day cold start. Also sprung a 150psi autometer mech oil gauge. Truck had 70psi of oil pressure when it was off...

My stock 3.0 engine starts at 80psi oil pressure when cold (ambient 70 degrees) reading from a Autometer mech gauge, then drops to 20psi when warm.

ISC,
You will need to bench test the operation of the valve. If you have another one plug it in and power up and watch to see if the pintle runs properly. The B&G code you are using only has a graph for setting position over temp, crude to say the least.
Come over to the dark side with the extra code where you can really get things setup, or confuse the hill out of yourself trying. At least they have real time control. But first make sure the valve runs in and out.

Better yet,If you do have another valve that was last in a warm engine, swap it in. Do not power it as it may be at a good idle position. This is how I had been running my 4G63 before.

Oil therm.
If I recall the oil Tstat seats at the base of the threads inside the housing. I have not had a leak there so I have not learned allot about them. I have had many apart since I port all of the oil systems I work on.

I don't think the IAC is working. I removed the IAC and took a quick look with it powered by MS. When I turned the key switch, nothing happened. I plan to spend the rest of today learning how this thing works. Hopefully, I can change the coil wiring scheme and get it to work. It could be that I need to reverse polarity on one of the coils.

I don't think I'm ready for the Extra code yet. I still have a whole lot to learn about MS2.

Frank

OK, the IAC is now working and under MS control. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> After some bench testing and checking on the running engine, I've found what appears to be a work-around - the intuitive way to wire the coil (and how the MS manual suggests) doesn't work.... that puts the coils in same polarity. For the motor to be controlled, one coil needs an opposite polarity. The next issue I found was that it worked in reverse (extended with key switch ON), so I swapped the wires coil/coil and it retracted on key switch ON.

Viewing the IAC motor connector with the 2 blades on top (as shown in the FSM), the pins are numbered L-R, top row/bottom row....... 1/2/3 (top row) & 4,5,6 (bottom row).

Connect as follows:

IAC pin 1 to MS ECU pin 29 (S3)
IAC pin 2 not used (center tap)
IAC pin 3 to MS ECU pin 31 (S4)
IAC pin 4 to MS ECU pin 27 (S2)
IAC pin 5 not used (center tap)
IAC pin 6 to MS ECU pin 25 (S1)

Now, it wouldn't extend after engine starting, so I changed the 400 Hz Time Step Size from 2.5 milliseconds to 6.0 milliseconds. Apparently, the Mitsu stepper motor is slower reacting. Since longer time step size will generate more heat in the stepper motor, I may try to bring the value a little lower.

Anyway, I now have it idling at 950 rpms and not sure what to do next. It's surging at idle.... hunting around 14.7, trying to go lean, but the wideband brings it back in line.

My lowest bin for the tables is 30Kpa. I wonder if I should have a bin at 20Kpa.

Frank

Good work,

My turbo engine idles at 55 Kpa and it will pull down to 20 or so Kpa with trailing throttle.

I take it the timing is stable now?

Start adding or subracting fuel in as many bins as you can reach. Once you can get most of the no load area set, then interpolate to allow the power to climb from there and it will soon be time to start putting under some load.

A little more progress..... I adjusted the idle stop screw in combination with raising the fuel rail pressure to 38psi and it's now idling at 650-700 rpms. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I still have to feather the throttle to keep it running as it's starting. After a minute or so, I can release the throttle and it'll hold the idle, but it does surge.

The timing is fairly stable... last I looked it was about 18* advance at 1100 rpms.

You said something earlier about using "G" to change the fuel bins.... I didn't see that feature in the B&G code, but I'm probably missing something. So, can you explain how I adjust... type in a higher value? Does the ECU react as I make the typed change, or do I have to burn each change?

Frank