Sounds like the wrong dyno to use.
A dyno is only as good as the operator, it makes no matter what type the dyno is. You are paying for the guy that operates the dyno, not the dyno itself. The dyno tells you nothing, it only give a report. One must decipher what it is saying.
Every engine I have tuned is down on power when I leave the dyno. The operators go, come on two more pulls, lets get the timing up there and make some power. Drag race mentality. on a road course the last 3 HP does not matter if the engine does not last a 1/2 hour session. I have NEVER lost an engine to tuning. Many of my Subaru customers loose the engine on the dyno, just short of torque peak. Detonation every time. I am glad they are not my engine builds, I only do chassis work on Subarus.

Your timing curve will need some fiddling but looked safe, in the long run it will need more timing at low KPAs for economy. Essentially it is lacking vacuum advance.
You will need to find where the torque peak is, that is the most critical spot. Then readjust the RPM settings so you have a row of bins corresponding to the peak. The engine will have a fuel curve climb to torque peak and then taper off after peak up to rev limit.
The timing will be similar but may climb or decrease after torque peak. It will say what it wants.

I have engines that are road tuned running MS, you can have a full functioning vehicle that never spun a dyno. The dyno is just faster and safer.

I use throttle stops on a dyno, It can be a slow pull with only 20% throttle. Most unknowing dyno operators just want to open the throttle on the first pull. Do not do that.
I hate the phone calls, oh the oil pump failed. No it didn't, the bearings were hammered out from detonation and the debris got picked up by the pump! Damn Subarus.


Cheers, Charlie
If It ain't broke, Modify it!
87 Montero turbo Converted back in Spring1989
95 Montero SR 3.8 DOHC Only one?
93 Pajero 3 door 6G75 Mivec with paddle shifted 5 speed
Then a Gen2 SR with full coil independent suspension.