Yep - that's exactly what concerns me about this fellow. When I asked about ring seating on a new engine - if I should do it before going on the dyno - or - if it could be done on the dyno, he said.... "we usually get 'em roughly tuned and stand on it, so that'll take care of ring seating". <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> Yikes! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> If I use auto tune, once I get enough done, I can probably get the rings seated on some easy 2nd gear pulls if I stay out of boost. Truth be told, they'll probably be seated long before I go through the "caveman ring-seating ritual". <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Oh - for those interested, the oil cooler banjo bolts are all steel.... it was a very good likeness of brass with the coating on a couple of them.... or my eyes are bad..... or memory failing. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Frank

Why stay out of boost? Just use the old tune from the bottom style you have started with, you will be on boost soon enough.

The working wideband is the key to early driving. You have it set for 70% authority. that allows for allot of correction. as you close in on a proper tune the authority will be reduced to 15% or so. But at this time it is a save all for an untuned engine.

I thought the auto tune instructions said to set step size to 1% and controller authority to 10% so you don't experience unstable jumps in a bin.

Frank

Yes, but auto tune is different than just driving on wideband.
You should be able to go out hop in and drive right now. That is why the wideband has 70%, you do not need to even be close in the fuel tune and it will run.
The auto tune wants to creep in and make it right. It takes a few seconds for each step. You do not want fast reacting with over shoot during this phase.

So, if I set it to auto tune and go for an easy drive, the VE table changes will be made automatically and I should burn to the ECU before I shut the engine off?

Frank

If the system is all working, Yes. It should be that easy.
It may take some fiddling to get it to work sweet and you may need to concentrate to get within 200 rpm of a bin long enough for it to set each one. It can take a bit of brake riding to get them. Burn and save after each run and massage next to where it adjusted help it along.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Today, the engine started immediately when cold, started idling down and then shut off. I decided to spend some more time playing with the stepper motor. I pulled it out, left it connected and played with the software controls.

If you listen and watch, the motor tells you what you need to know for step count when you power up. Too many steps entered into the control software cause a vibration at the end of one cycle and too few steps cause the same vibration at the other extreme - either retraction or extension. I found that with the way I have it wired, there are 98-100 steps, depending on hysterisis influence, so I set the step count to 100.... a big change from the MS default values for GM steppers.

Then I played with the Time Step Size and found 2.7 milliseconds to be ideal at first. The motor liked that until I reinstalled it and the engine was running. The engine didn't react as I expected, so I pulled the motor out again and found that when warm, it needs a longer pulse for reliable operation. I found 4.0 milliseconds to work fine when warm. This number should be kept as low as possible, still giving reliability.

I played with the IAC step counts and afterstart enrichment some, but then the idle was high and didn't react as I expected..... so I generated a new VE table which resulted in higher values. I now have it idling at 650 rpms and it starts ok when hot. I think the stepper is under control, but I'll see what it does tomorrow.

I tried playing with auto tune in the idle bins, but got the "tuning point is outside window" message. What does that mean and what should I do about it?

Frank

I expect you were within 200 rpm of the bin?
Back with the original version 1 processor they had hidden parameters that had to be setup in the mtCfg files that were there to only allow "those that could" get it to work. I learned a few years ago but do not have it up on my mind at this time.
It had looked to me that the V2 processor they had the auto tune working for all to use. Unfortunately I have not used any B&G code since Extra came out years ago, so I also need to read. I did try to use the B&G code this past summer but only to learn the code did not allow a 1 cylinder engine to run. I swapped processors for the old V1 and all was good. Hard to think I was the first one to try and get a single to run on the new processor.

Probably..... the rpm bins are small around idle.

I'm sending via email the latest .msq file with the new VE table generated late today. If you have time, take a look and see if it looks ok - I've also made stepper and warmup enrichment changes.

Frank